Completely apart from and high above its popular beach destinations of Cabo, Cancun, and Cozumel, there is a side to Mexico that few foreigners get to see. A major attraction of my two-week trip to the Central Highlands of Mexico was the time we had for exploration of Mexico’s cultural treasures. These included the obligatory cathedrals and the Spanish colonial architecture in the cities of Taxco and Puebla. However, the pre-Columbian city of Teotihuacan with its amazing pyramids, largest outside of Egypt, and the attractively restored Hacienda of Vista Hermosa struck me as particularly interesting.
Teotihuacan, located 25 miles northeast of Mexico City, is known today as the site of many of the most architecturally significant Mesoamerican pyramids built in the pre-Columbian Americas. At its zenith in the first half of the first millennium AD, it was the largest city in the Americas, with a population estimated at 125,000 or more.
The city is thought to have been established around 100 BC, with its major monuments continuously under construction until about 250 AD. Teotihuacan began as a new religious center in the Mexican Highlands around the first century AD and featured multi-floor apartment compounds built to accommodate its large population. The city lasted until sometime between the 7th and 8th centuries AD, though its major monuments were sacked and systematically burned around 550 AD.
By far the most amazing hotel in which we stayed during the two weeks was the Hacienda Vista Hermosa, around ½ hour from Cuernavaca and near the Xochicalcan ruins.
La Hacienda de San José Vista Hermosa was founded in 1529 by Hernán Cortés, “conqueror” of Mexico. As a reward for his conquests, Charles V, honored him with the title of Marques del Valle de Oaxaca, granting him dominion and rights over 23,000 vassals and a vast expanse of land. The Hacienda of San José of Vista Hermosa was center of the life, culture and activity of the region. Lacking iron and wood, it was built of stone with the proportions of a fortress, surrounded by colossal walls, including in its domains the residential building, stables, and the magnificent stone facilities used in the sugar refinery.
After changing hands a few times, Don Vicente Vidal bought Vista Hermosa in 1820, and it remained the property of his family until 1910, when the revolution broke out. After various revolutionary battles, only ruins remained to hint at its former pomp and glory. In 1945, the almost-destroyed Hacienda was acquired to rebuild it and turn it into a tourist destination. The original architectural style was retained and in 1947 it opened its doors to the public to become the prestigious Hotel Hacienda Vista Hermosa of today.
