Reykjavik Recon

Four days in Iceland hardly suffices to explore even a fraction of the hiking opportunities on offer near Reykjavik. Even more so when one feels compelled to experience some of the abundant tourist sites and walk around the city itself. I spent two days driving around the south of Iceland and the Reykjanes Peninsula, stopping at the usual tourist sites: thermal springs and fumaroles, basaltic columns, sea stacks, natural arches, glaciers, waterfalls, surf cauldrons, etc. Even within a one-day drive of this northern-most capital in the world, the possibilities are limitless. And I didn’t even have time to drive the popular route known as the Golden Circle, usually the first item on a tourist’s checklist.

Whilst I surely enjoyed the tourist sites, and some certainly involved walking, I took a grand total of zero photos at these sites. That’s not to say that they were not photo-worthy. Far from it. But in the jostle of dozens to hundreds of other tourists, I felt more connected to the landscape using only my eyes, shutting out the other featherless bipeds as much as possible. (Bipeds of the feathered variety were quite impressive, by the way, and included puffins nesting on a South Coast cliff).

I did squeeze in two hikes of note, however. Both are certainly in anyone’s top ten in the Reykjavik area: Glymur Falls (now only the 2^nd highest in Iceland) and Mt Esja, the “city” mountain of Reykjavik, easily distinguished as the long ridge to the north of the city. The following few photos highlight these two very worthwhile hikes. Go early in the day while others are nursing their hangovers to best enjoy these hikes.

View of Hvalfjörður fjord and mountains, en-route to the Glymur Falls trail

View near the trailhead of the Glymur Falls trail. I’m not sure what those flowers are that have gone to seed.

The exit from the short cave near the Botnsá River through which the Glymur Falls trail passes

The first Botnsá river crossing. The log and cable are only in place during the summer.

Botnsá River vista downstream towards Hvalfjörður. Unlike most others, I did this hike as a loop, ascending on the left here to above the falls, and then descending on the right side.

Upper half of the Glymur Falls, which is really a cascade, with total height of about 198 meters.

Another view of the Glymur falls, showing some of its complexity. The Botnsá River is seen on the left.

Up close and personal with the Glymur Falls. Few hikers waded across to this side and I doubt any others got close enough to really experience the power of the falls.

Mt Esja lupines and clover. There are numerous routes up and around the long ridge known as Mt Esja. I hiked the most popular variant, to the Þverfellshorn summit (though most only hike up to an undistinguished rock known as the “Steinn,” avoiding the more interesting summit cone).

View south toward Reykjavik from Mt Esja’s Þverfellshorn summit

So, is Reykjavik and environs worth a visit? I can most definitely answer in the affirmative, provided one’s budget permits (this must be the most expensive country in the world!) and one’s tolerance for tourists is similarly high.

My next blog post will be in 5 weeks, of my summit attempt on Pik Lenin in Kyrgystan’s Pamir Mountains. In the mean time,

Happy trails,

The Vagabond Hiker

Reykjavik Recon

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