Rapa Nui (aka Easter Island) Archeological walks

Easter Island, or Rapa Nui in the native language of the Polynesian people that first settled there, is one of the most remote inhabited islands in the world. (Tristan da Cunha in the southern Atlantic Ocean also lays claim to this title, depending on how one considers the year-round Antarctic base several hundred miles away). It is also not cheap to fly as LATAM airways is the only airline flying the nearly 2500 miles from Santiago (Rapa Nui is legally part of Chile) with between one and three flights per day depending on the season and day of the week. While providing the locals with much-needed income, the limited number of flights has the benefit of keeping the island from being over-run with tourists and their concomitant infrastructure that could easily ruin the whole experience.

Its compact size, interesting topography, and good road access to much of the island make Rapa Nui an ideal place to enjoy nature as well as the archeological remains from the Polynesians. Essential to planning your visit and appreciating the sites is A Companion To Easter Island (Guide To Rapa Nui) by James Grant Peterkin. We spent five night in a small AirBnB cabaña where we were able to rent a small 4×4. While we saw all the main sites, there were several more hikes to do had we more time – and had my gout not flared up!

Pastoral view from the Te Ara O Te Ao trail near its trailhead just west of the airport at *Matarevi*

*Hanga Roa* from the *Te Ara O Te Ao* trail. *Hanga Roa* is the only town on the island and where virtually all visitors stay. The runway is also visible in this photo.

*Rano Kau* crater and wetland. This is the only wetland on *Rapa Nu*i and contains many endemic species.

Three islets off the southwest coast of *Rapa Nui*. The *Tangata manu*, or bird-man, was the winner of the competition to collect the first sooty tern egg of the season from *Moto Nui* (the largest islet shown here), swim back and climb the sea cliff to the village of *Orong*o.

*Rapa Nui* coastline near *Ana Kai Tangata* caves

Bird-man pictographs, *Ana Kai Tangata*.

*Hanga Roa* coastal view of the pebble beach and some restaurants and shops. Everything was expensive on the island, but the local seafood was excellent.

Petroglyphs at *Papa Vaca* (literally “stone canoe.”) Images at this site include fish hooks, tuna, canoes, turtles, and even one shark.

*Rano Raraku* quarry. If you visit one site on Easter, *Rano Raraku* with its over 400 *Moai* at various stages of production should be it. While you can walk the paths in less than an hour, plan on spending a morning here.

*Moai* in profile at *Rano Raraku.* Nearly all of the almost 900 known *Moai* were carved from tuff, compressed volcanic ash.

*Tongariki Moai* and platform (*ahu*) from behind. This is the best example of the skill involved in constructing *ahu* for the *Moai*. Like all *Moai*, these had been toppled over during the civil wars on *Rapa Nui* and only recently restored.

The fifteen *Moai* at *Tongariki*. Note the top knot on the 2nd from the right *Moai.* Several others had similar red scoria (basaltic) head gear, but they have since been destroyed.

The “traveling” *Moai* at *Tongariki*. It was loaned to Japan for the 1970 World’s Fair and returned. In contrast, the British Museum, despite tearful entreaties from the Rapa Nui, has held the Hoa Hakananai’a for 150 years.

*Rano Raraku* quarry site seen from *Tongariki*.

*Anakana* platform (*ahu*) and *Moai,* many showing top knots. *Anakana* is one of only two white sand beaches on the island, popular with locals on the weekend.

*Moai* on its back at *Akahanga*. Very unusual since during the civil wars most *Moai* were toppled onto their faces to destroy their power.

Several top knots at *Vaihu*. Once thought to be hats, they more likely represent the hair style of the time. Only some of the later *Moai* were adorned with these massive basaltic sculptures.

And one final image to leave you with. . .

*Tongariki* and the rugged east coast of *Rapa Nui* from *Rano Raraku*

Right now I am relaxing on my balcony overlooking the Pacific Ocean just north of Viña del Mar in Chile, planning my travels through the summer and will shortly update my calendar accordingly. My next blog post, in a couple of weeks, will be a smorgasbord of different hikes and walks I did on mainland Chile this past month. In the mean time, enjoy the outdoors where ever you happen to be.

The Vagabond Hiker

Rapa Nui (aka Easter Island) Archeological walks

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