For nine months I had been anticipating this trip to Norway. While I had considered several different itineraries in Norway, the high in-country costs and desire to do a multi-day trek led me to choose KE’s 8 day trip to the highest mountains in the country. Although not high even by European standards, with tree line at about 900 meters (3000 ft) and considering the ruggedness and remoteness of the Jotunheimen (literally Home of the Giants), it proved indeed a proper trek. I’ll take you through the day-to-day hikes accompanied by a few of my Samsung phone photos.
Day 1: Gyjendesheim to Memurubu via the Besseggen Ridge
Length 15.4 km; Elevation gain 1,180 m
Without a doubt this is the post popular day hike in Norway, and for good reason. We arrived the prior afternoon at Gyjendesheim Hut (actually a hotel) right on the Gjende Lake. As a boat would take most of our kit to our next hut, we needed only a day pack, which was just as well. The sunny weather of the day prior was just a memory. . .
Day 2: Relocation day
The weather today effectively put the kibosh to actually traversing the Jotunheimen. Our intent had been to walk over a high pass from our previous hut to Spiterstulen Hut, but with bad weather forecast the decision was made to forgo the 25 km walk with 1330 m elevation gain, which because of our less than quick pace, would have got us into Spiterstulen well into the evening. Instead, we took a boat trip back to Gyjendesheim, followed by two public buses with a four hour connection in the mountain town of Lom to reach Spiterstulen in the late afternoon. I used the layover in civilization to good effect, replacing my years-old Keen hiking boots that were on their last legs (so to speak), and critically, not at all water-resistant, with Salewa Mountain Trainer Lite Mid Gore-Tex hiking boots for sale in a local mountain shop. A vast improvement!
Day 3: Svellnosbrean Glacier explore
Length 10.4 km; Elevation gain 760 m
The weather continued poorly the following day, so Peter our guide reversed the next two day’s hikes. As we were spending three nights at the Spiterstulen hut (actually more a hotel that a mountain hut), this was no big deal. A leisurely start as we vainly hoped for the weather improvement saw us making some swollen creek crossings late in the morning. . .
Day 4: Spiterstulen to Galdhøpiggen summit (2469 m)
Length 13.3 km; Elevation gain 1,480 m
This was my most-anticipated day of the trip: climbing to the summit of the highest mountain in Norway. Well rested (I had upgraded to a single room for the three nights in Spitestulen) and with superb weather, it did not disappoint. . .
Day 5: Spiterstulen to Leirvassbu
Length 16.2 km; Elevation gain 640 m
After two day hikes from Sputerstulen it was time to move on, continuing generally west in the Jotunheimen.
Day 6: Leirvassbu to Skogadalsbøen
Length: 20.6 km; Elevation gain 350 m
Billed primarily as a downhill hike today, it felt anything but. The wildflowers were spectacular, however on the final two days of trekking.
Day 7: Skagadalsboen to Utadalen
Length 19.0 km; Elevation gain 850 m
Our final full day of trekking as Day 8 was to be a one hour walk out to a bus stop at the road head. While primarily downhill, we still managed about 2800 ft of elevation gain!
Our final night was a home stay with a charming local farming family. Although I took a few more pictures, the Vettifossen seems a great final photo so I’ll stop my journey across the Jotunheimen here.
Although only 4 to 5 hours by bus from the modern capital city of Oslo, the Jotunheimen stands a world apart. And, despite some unstable weather, the end of June was an excellent time to go, shortly after the huts had opened for the season, but before the summer crowds descended (or more properly, ascended).
I am now once again in the Val d’Aosta in the Italian Alps, this time for more than a month. My next blog should include some of this wonderful landscape and the alpine flora that peaks in early summer.
The Vagabond Hiker
So jealous of your visit to Norge! Sorry the weather wasn’t what you would have liked – it still looked quite beautiful. Can’t wait to see more on the Italian alps.
The Italian Alps have ZERO snow this year – and it’s still early summer! The glaciers are simply melting away. It’s so sad. . .
Flowers are stunning! Cool that you climbed the Highpoint of Norway. Another trip to add to my bucket list.
Too many mountains, too little time.
Great to see the “high” points of Norway! We visited with elderly relatives to see the “homeland” so definitely a different perspective. Still a beautiful country.
K