The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

The Hidden Guianas

Of the four great, pristine rain-forests left on the planet I explored one of them, the Iwokrama, on a journey to the three least visited countries in South America. More than 80% of Suriname, French Guiana and Guyana is covered with dense jungle, much remaining uncharted. Along with the mangroves, savannas and coastline, these natural habitats play host to some of the richest biodiversity ever recorded. My itinerary, organized by Wilderness Explorers, showcased the breath-taking diversity of these three unique countries, located on the North-eastern shoulder of South America.

The Guainas: Guyana, Suriname, and French Guiana

Suriname

I arrived in Suriname’s capital, Paramaribo, a couple of days early to better adjust to the time (and weather!) change from southern Utah. The excellent restaurant and refreshing swimming pool at the Torarica Resort made acclimatization for the following two week trip with five Brits that much easier.

Presidential Palace Paramaribo, Suriname, was the centerpiece of a walking tour of the historic town center
Houses near Fort Zeelandia, Paramaribo, highlighting the Dutch clapboard architecture
Paramaribo’s Saint-Peter-and-Paul Basilica, one of the largest wooden churches in the world
Egrets at sunset on the Commewijne River, Nieuw Amsterdam. While we did not see any pink river dolphins, the sunset tour on the river was special nonetheless.
A house on the former plantation of Rust en Werk (“Rest and Work”), on the Commiwijne River. Presumably Rust refers to the dissipated lives of the Dutch plantation owners and Werk refers to the slaves’ arduous toil.
Atjoni marina, Upper Suriname River. A three hour drive from Paramaribo brought us to the end of the road above the Brokopondo Reservoir and the start of our two hour river journey upstream in one of these pirogues.
Passing a lodge along the Upper Suriname River
A lizard on a wooden sculpture at the Saramaca museum of indigenous culture
My Danpaati lodge cabin view. The lodge was definitely deluxe, with en-suite bathrooms, a salt water swimming pool, and a fine dining restaurant and bar.
An interesting tree on our walk near Dan Village

To respect the wishes of the Maroon inhabitants of Dan Village, I had not taken photos of them. Sadly, the tree above was the last photo taken with my Panasonic Lumix, which drowned in a rain-forest deluge moments later. RIP.

French Guiana

Technically not a country, but rather and overseas department of France, our travel day from Paramaribo to Cayenne, French Guyana, consisted of six hours travel by van, divided in two by a river border crossing on a motorized pirogue.

Moiwana Monument in Eastern Suriname. The 1986 massacre of women and children that took place here was never properly investigated or the perpetrators held accountable.
The Transportation Prison at St. Laurent-du-Maroni, French Guiana. Our schoolmarmish guide seemed enthralled by grisly details. Papillon was incarcerated here for a few months in cell #47.
Our tour of France’s inhumane penal system continued on the Îles du Salut. Shown is a view of a prison on St Joseph Island, closed only in 1953.
St Joseph Island cemetery for the wardens and their families. The inmates’ bodies were simply dumped in the Atlantic Ocean.
A pool for the wardens on St Joseph Island. Quite refreshing after our circumambulation of the island!
Devil’s Island seen from Isle Royale, where we had lunch in a restored tourist hotel. The white building seen here is where Alfred Dreyfus was held in isolation for several years.

Guyana

The onward journey to Guyana was no less arduous – and certainly longer – than that to French Guiana. Five hours of driving back to Paramaribo, and then a flight to Georgetown early the following morning reinforced to me the isolation of this corner of South America. The congested, dilapidated capital of Guyana aside, our trip definitely concluded on a high note as the Iwokrama Rainforest, savannas of southern Guyana, and dramatic Kaieteur Falls were without a doubt the tour’s highlights.

Kaieteur Falls, at 226 m (741 ft) the highest single-drop falls in the world. An hour long flight on a Cessna 208B to a remote airstrip followed by a half-hour walk brought our group to some stunning view points
Down-valley view from Kaieteur Falls
The Vagabond Hiker standing well back from the edge at Kaieteur Falls

A tiny golden rocket frog near Kaieteur Falls. Lack of a decent camera really told here.
Atta River Lodge hibiscus. Not many flowers were in bloom at the end of the dry season. We flew from Georgetown to the Iwokrama airstrip for a three day journey into the rain-forest and savanna of central and southern Guyana. We stopped briefly for lunch at this Research Station and lodge.
View from Turtle Mountain, Iwokrama Rainforest. The trailhead was a short boat trip from our rain-forest lodge. Although the hike was less than two hours round trip, we were all soaked with sweat long before the end.
Our indigenous guide and an interesting tree in the Iwokrama Forest. Much of the forest is protected, and the rest sustainably harvested, or so we were told.
The Essequibo River from our boat, returning from the Turtle Mountain hike. The Essequibo is the largest river between the Orinoco and the Amazon, flowing north from Brazil to the Atlantic Ocean.
A male Cock-of-the-Rock, the photo taken through a spotting scope. This walk and bird watching excursion was a great break from our long drive to our next lodge, in the savanna.
Surama Eco-Lodge, near the eponymous village located in the savanna, our home for two nights. Like the Iwokrama Rain-forest Lodge, it is run and staffed by the local people.
An early morning hike rewarded us with this great view from Surama mountain.
An afternoon walk brought us to the Burra Burra River where a local boatman took us in his canoe to observe birds and caimans. The trip was far more interesting than perhaps this photo shows.
A birding walk on the final morning at the Surama Ecolodge ticked more than two dozen species for us. A great end to the two week trip!

As a codicil to the story of my deceased Lumix, I just acquired an Olympus Tough TG-6, a rugged water-proof, dust-proof, shock-proof, etc, camera. We’ll see how this latest device works out on my next trip, to Costa Rica’s Guanacaste Province in two weeks, the subject of my next blog post.

The Vagabond Hiker

Comments

  1. Wow. Certainly a part of the world I know nothing about. French Guyana – sounds like it was pretty morbid! Beautiful pics as always!

    • A well-traveled acquaintance confessed to me yesterday that the Guianas are the only three countries in South America that he has not visited. You’re not alone!

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