The rugged peaks, dramatic gorges, and scenic coastal paths make western Crete a wonderful hiking destination. The White Mountains, (Lefka Ori in Greek), composed chiefly of limestone, are the southern-most range in Europe. Nonetheless, they’re high enough to receive snow during the winter months and hold it until early spring. Both the snow covered uplands and the blanched limestone rocks contribute to the name of the range, the largest on Crete, occupying a considerable area of the central and western portions of the island. A good introductory reference on the Lefka Ori may be found here.
My one-week trip to western Crete was, once again, with KE Adventures, whose itinerary includes descending the longest gorge in Europe, climbing the highest peak in the White Mountains, as well as scenic coastal walking. With three separate guest house bases, we were able to cover a wide range of the natural highlights of the western Crete. Enjoy the photos!
Our first day’s hike was to the summit of Mount Gingilos. At 1980m, it is not as high as other peaks, but its relatively easy access, purported great views, and exciting trail to the summit made it a good – if a bit challenging – choice for our first hike.
Our second day’s hike, down Samaria Gorge, could not have been more different. From the same trailhead as the previous day, we descended this wildly popular gorge to the sea, about 15 km and more than 1200 meters lower. Most of the 1000 or so daily hikers came by bus from the popular tourist resorts in eastern Crete, so we had plenty of company.
After descending the gorge, we stayed in the remote hamlet of Agia Roumeli near its base. This village is only accessible by water or foot, and was quite charming once the day-trippers from the Samaria Gorge left in late afternoon. Following a rest day, we continued our hiking week along a coastal section of the long distance E4 walking path.
At the conclusion of our coastal walk, we transferred about one hour by ferry to Sfakia, where we stayed for our final three nights. Despite having road access, Sfakia was charming nonetheless, with numerous harbor-side tavernas and not too much tourist kitsch. The hotel we stayed in was completely forgettable; I would recommend the Xenia Hotel instead if you’re ever in the area.
Our penultimate hike was to the summit of Mount Pachnes. We ascended a jeep road that took us 90 minutes to reach the trailhead at its terminus.
Our final hike was a horseshoe from Marmara beach up the Aradena Gorge to the ancient town of Anopoli, with a descent to Loutro after lunch. The Aradena Gorge, one of more than 50 on Crete, is in many ways more spectacular than Samaria Gorge – and with far fewer people!
I’m back in the UK for the next few days, before returning to the US on Thursday. Four days of hiking the South West Coast Path this past week provided quite a contrast to Crete, and will be the subject of my next blog post.
Now that summer’s over, get outside and enjoy the cooler weather this autumn!
The Vagabond Hiker
Ohhh I love the color of the water there! Thanks as always for sharing. We’re off on a 10 day backpack in the Grand Canyon on 10/1, then a Mesquite visit, then back to the canyon for R-R-R.
Safe travels!
Great to hear of your plans this autumn. I’ll be in St George from later this week until mid-December. Perhaps we can get together when you’re in Mesquite?