The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Walking in Turkey, Part 2: Cappadocia

Leaving the cosmopolitan city of Istanbul, I boarded a 11/2 hr flight to Kayseri, followed by a one hour taxi to the tourist center of Cappadocia, Göreme, where I had reserved a hotel room for two nights. After a day spent on a guided bus/walking tour of an extensive underground city and the Ilhara Valley, I transferred to Mustafapaşa and met Maggie for a one week self-guided walking tour of the region. Utracks sorted all the details, including accommodation and meals, luggage transfers, and importantly, provided gpx tracks for each day’s walk. I had never used them before, but definitely recommend them for self-guided walking in Europe.

For millions of years the volcanoes of the Central Anatolian Plateau erupted over the land to create the unique rock formations including the fairy chimneys that characterize Cappadocia, Turkey. Through the centuries, civilizations carved houses and churches within these rocky pillars and underground cities, leaving a legacy that is a focal point for visitors to the region. Interspersed among these relics is a living culture of traditional villages, spectacular river valleys and rural settlements. Hopefully this blog captures a bit of these wonders. I include macros of some of the numerous flowers we saw during our walks, and have amended the Lycian Way blog to add a few flowers from there also. Enjoy!

The Dawn Ascension from my hotel room terrace in Göreme. It definitely paid to get up before sunrise! Weather depending, Maggie and I hoped to go on a Hot Air Balloon ride one morning. . .
The Ilhara Valley (“Green”) tour began with a couple of stops at viewpoints. The town of Uchisar is seen here, with typical rock formations including numerous fairy towers.
The upper entrance to the Ilhara Valley. We did a short (3.5 km) walk to our restaurant for lunch along the river. The entire valley is 16 km long.
A view along our Ilhara valley river walk
Selime Monastery interior. This complex rock monastery is at the lower end of Ilhara Valley.
A portion of our Mustafapaşa cave hotel suite. The cave hotels we stayed in were definitely an experience!
Cappadocia Walking Week Day 1. View along the road to the village of Ayvali. This day, unlike succeeding ones, we generally walked along a plateau above the maze of valleys. We stayed this night at a homestay with a wonderful family who teaches Cappadocia cooking classes. We feasted this evening (sorry, no food porn on this blog site).
Pheasant’s Eye (Adonis annua)
Squarerose knapweed (Cyanus triumfettii)
Cappadocia Walking Week Day 2. Maggie along Gomeda Valley.
St Basil Church above Gomeda Valley
Lush view along the Gomeda Valley. We walked along at least five valleys this week, each unique in its own way. The riparian vegetation of the Gomeda Valley was particularly lush.
Rock church interior along the Gomeda Valley.
Our walking companion along the Gomeda valley. He joined us for two days.
Looking out from a natural cave along Gomeda valley.
Pigeon houses along the Gomeda Valley. The people had five distinct uses for the pigeons they raised. I’ll let you figure out what they were.
Kent and Dog. Photo courtesy of Maggie.
Poppies and daisies view on road to Ortahisar. We left Gomeda Valley for some plateau walking to the next town on our itinerary.
Ortahisar with its distinctive fort.
The Ortahisar gorge from our Cave Hotel room terrace. Note the pigeon holes.
Cappadocia Walking Week Day 3. A balloon seemingly landing in Ortahisar gorge.
Zemi Valley formation on Day 3.
Another Zemi Valley rock formation
Alkanna orientalis
View of Zemi Valley on the road to Uchisar. Once out of Zemi Valley, we continued along the plateau to our next stop.
The volcanic Erciyes peak (3916m), highest in the area, can be seen here on the road to Uchisar. Snow-covered in May, the ski season generally runs from November through March.
Uchisar also boasts a fort.
Cappadocia Walking Week Day 4. Some typical Love Valley candle-shaped fairy chimneys.
More Love Valley fairy chimneys, at one time providing habitation. Due to the threat of rain, I took very few photos this day.
Cappadocia Walking Week Day 5. Following rain the prior day and in the night, the weather was fine for the hot air balloon ride we had booked. Here some balloons are inflating in the pre-dawn.
Our balloon being inflated.
Balloons rising. I took beaucoup photos, but will only inflict a couple on you here.
Landscape with balloons from ours. The large rectangular gondola was amazingly stable, and held 28 clients along with a pilot and copilot. It was an amazing, though expensive, experience. They jacked the price 50 Euros as this was the last day of Eid in Turkey.
After our balloon ride, we leisurely started a Bozdag Plateau circuit walk. Here is part of the interior of St Nicholas church outside the town of Çavuşin, where we stayed for two nights.
View from the church above Çavuşin.
Another room in the rock church above Çavuşin. Sadly, most of these churches have been defaced (quite literally in many cases!) and covered with graffiti.
Garden Star-of-Bethlehem (Ornithogalum divergens)
Bozdag Plateau circuit walk view. We had seen this large plateau (what in the Southwest US would be called a mesa) in the distance on most days. Notice the black berets on the group of Frenchmen at the lower left.
Sicklefruit hypecoum (Hypecoum imberbe)
Some of the many sandstone rock formations on the shoulder of the Bozdag Plateau.
A rest stop surrounded by rock formations
Cappadocia Walking Week Day 6. Rose Valley fairy chimneys. This final day’s walk, to Göreme, we traversed two valleys, the Rose and the Red.
Kent framed in the door of a rock church in Rose Valley, being struck by a ray of light. Photo courtesy of Maggie.
Golden fleece (Urospermum dalechampii)
Maggie exploring Rose Valley
Rose and Red valleys walk vista. Definitely I can see some similarities to Utah.
Some of the Göreme Open Air Museum formations. This was the better of the two “open air” museums we encountered this week. Both were heavily-touristed, though this one was worth the time lingering amongst (and in) these formations.

On arrival in Göreme, I showered, sorted my luggage, and caught a taxi to Kayseri and then the short flight back to Istanbul. After (fortunately) testing negative for Covid, I slept at the airport hotel a few hours, and continued the next day back to Las Vegas via London. Altogether it took nearly 39 hours from Göreme to my AirBnB in Hurricane Utah, followed by several days for my body to adjust to the 9 hour time difference.

I am now packing for my 4 month UK and European summer trip. Please see the 2022 Calendar tab on the upper right of this blog for some of the adventures I’m planning. It’s definitely great to be traveling once again while enjoying the great outdoors. Stay tuned!

The Vagabond Hiker

Walking in Turkey, Part 1: Best of the Lycian Way

On a last-minute impulse inspired by reasonable airfare, I decided to head to Turkey for three weeks of walking and culture. The first portion of the journey took me from Las Vegas to Istanbul via London, and then the next morning on a short flight to Dalaman in Southwestern Turkey. For the next 6 days I walked some of the best portions of the more than 300 miles of coastal and inland trails in this area rich in history. The ex-pat Briton Kate Clow provided the impetus for cobbling together these ancient trails, first opened in 1999. Sadly, since that time a large amount of coastal development has taken place, detracting from sections of the Way. With limited time available, and transfers required to enjoy the most interesting sections of the trail, I booked a self-guided walking week with KE Adventures, whose local agent, Amber Travel, provided superb support, including daily luggage transfers. Enjoy the trek!

Fethiya Old Town market. My first night’s accommodation was nearby in the historic center. The market is a great place to stock up on dried fruits and nuts for the trail.
Some of the many Lycian rock tombs on the outskirts of Fethiya, Day 1. I walked directly from my hotel, though the official start of the Lycian Way was at the start of my 2nd day of walking.
The tomb of Amyntas, built by the Lycians in 350 BC, with poppies in the foreground.
Macro of a Pale Poppy (Papaver argemone)
Fethiya coastal view from the Tomb of Amyntas
A cobbled old Roman road through a pine forest, en route to Kayakoy, my first night’s destination.
Fragrant wisteria in bloom along a Kayakoy village road. This once thriving down fell largely into ruin after 1923 due to the population exchange with Greece following the Greco-Turkish war.
Roman sarcophagi along a Kayakoy village road
Villa Rhapsody, Kayakoy. A highly-recommended choice that served dinner and breakfast, and provided a pack lunch for the next day’s walk.
The official start to the Lycian Way, Day 2
Ölüdeniz town, beach, and coast, shortly after the start of the Lycian Way
Atmospheric trail view of Babadag Mountain on a traverse of its shoulder
Pink rock-rose (Cistus creticus)
The bole of an ancient olive tree, Kirme village
Abandoned terraces and sea views above Faralya, Day 3
Mallow (Mallow silvestris)
Rugged coastal topography en route to the Alinca watershed on Day 3
A somewhat battered looking turtle seen at the start of a steep descent on the Lycian Way
More amazing coastal topography from Day 3
The Ottoman Cistern at Sancakli, where my transfer was supposedly waiting. The route I took included transfers on 5 of the 6 days in order to avoid less interesting sections of the Lycian Way. All except this one went smoothly.
Patara city gate (1st century CE). My Day 4 walk began at the ancient city of Patara.
Harbor Street, Patara, dating from the 1st century BCE.
Assembly Hall of the Lycian League in Patara, housing “history’s earliest and perfect example of government,” according to Montesquieu.
Patara beach. The beach and surrounding coastal area is undeveloped due to nesting of endangered Loggerhead turtles. This was by far the best beach I encountered, and in April with chilly water was mostly deserted.
The Lycian Way following a Roman aqueduct, Day 4
Lycian coastal views on Day 4
Sage leaf rock-rose (Cistus salviifolius)
Another view of the Roman aqueduct, near Delikkemer (Myra)
Kas theatre, Day 5. This ancient theatre (200-300 BCE) is the only one facing the sea in Anatolia.
View from the cafe in Kaş where I enjoyed a late morning iced coffee. While some days were 8+ miles and 2000 ft or more elevation gain, other days were short enough to enjoy a leisurely start. The town of Kaş was a wonderful overnight stop, and featured two vegan restaurants! An extra day spent here sea kayaking and enjoying the ambience would have been greatly enjoyed.
Path along the karstic coast on Day 5. For those non-geologists reading this blog, karst is an irregular limestone region with sinkholes, underground streams, and caverns.
A beach cove vista on Day 5. I had a relaxing paddle on this remote pebble beach.
View from my transfer boat, heading to the fishing village of Simena
A view from my patio of my Simena pensione
Simena fort and sarcophagi at the start of Day 6
More karstic coast, Day 6
A lizard that did not look like he wanted to be messed with
An abandoned house near the coast from the Ottoman days
Church ruins at the ancient site of Istlada, most of which has not been excavated and is charmingly free from tourism.

Following this wonderful week of walking the Lycian Way, I flew to Istanbul for a city break, spending three nights in the boutique hotel Ibrahim Pasha in the historic center, convenient to many of the most interesting cultural sites in this megalopolis.

Istanbul Blue Mosque from the terrace of the Ibrahim Pasha Hotel, taken on my 60th birthday with a glass of chilled white wine in hand!

After Istanbul, I flew to Kayseri and took a taxi to Göreme in Cappadocia for the next eight days of walking and culture, highlighted in my next blog post.

The Vagabond Hiker

Far from the Madding Crowd around Joshua Tree

Since I first visited Joshua Tree National Park in Southern California about fifteen years ago, the number of visitors has more than doubled to over 3 million per year. Like other wildly popular parks such as Yosemite in California and Zion in Utah, the vast majority of the visitors congregate in a few areas. The Main Canyon in Zion National Park, Yosemite Valley in Yosemite National Park, and at the many pullouts along Park Boulevard in Joshua Tree National Park. These areas have three aspects in common: 1) spectacular scenery for quick Instagrams; 2) short, easy trails catering to a largely sedentary population; and 3) proximity to a paved road.

Once beyond the limited areas that meet all three of these three criteria, however, the hiker is amply rewarded with solitude, beauty, and the thrill of being Far from the Madding Crowd (apologies to Thomas Gray). In and around Joshua Tree National Park, the outdoor adventurer has options of longer, more remote trails, off-trail scramble routes in canyons and on innumerable rock formations, and summit climbs of the myriad peaks that abound in this area, on the border of the Mojave and Sonoran Deserts. In this blog I will highlight some of the hikes, scrambles, and climbs that I did over a five week period in February and March this year, as well as show a couple photos taken from my casita outside the town of Twentynine Palms.

The Trails

To escape the crowds on maintained trails at first seems nigh-on impossible, but such is not the case. First, go mid-week. Avoid the weekends like the plague. (If you’re supposed to be working, take a mental health day). Second, go early in the morning. The light is better anyway, and for at least half of your hike you’ll see no one. Third, find a longer trail that starts away from Park Boulevard, preferably off some gravel or dirt road. Yes, these do exist! They just aren’t the ones the Park Rangers will tell you about unless you repeatedly prod them.

Desert Queen Mine Extended loop. I cobbled together several trails from the Desert Queen Mine trailhead to achieve an interesting, 9 mile loop. This is an early morning view with some discarded equipment foreground.
The Eagle Cliffs boulder house near the Dessert Queen Mine. In California this qualifies as affordable housing!
Phacelia (Desert Bells) seen along the trail. February was a little early for most flowers; April is the best time for botanizing in Joshua Tree.
Teddy bear cholla and monzonite granite formations
A twelve stamp mill on the Lost Horse Mine loop trail. This mine was the most profitable of the early 20th century mines in the future park. I added a 1/2 mile excursion to the Lost Horse Mountain summit for great views. Go early to get parking and avoid the crowds – at least for the first half of the hike.
A Joshua Tree budding along the Stubbe Springs loop. This 13 mile loop off of Keys View Road is one one that sees few visitors despite the generally well-maintained trail.
Fan Canyon overlook view to Coachella Valley along the Stubbe Springs loop. It was a great lunch spot nearly 5000 ft above the valley floor.
Amboy Crater south rim view, Mojave Trails National Monument. This 10,000 year old lava field was only a 40 minute drive from my casita in 29 Palms, but a world away from Joshua Tree. A four mile loop hike in the early morning was well-recompensed with great views and few other visitors. (In Joshua Tree, the easy hike to Malapai Hill off of Geology Tour Road offers similar terrain).

The Scrambles

Of course the main reason I wanted to stay near Joshua Tree was not the trails, but the great scrambling opportunities, mainly on the monzonite granite rocks and riverine boulders. The park is world-renown for its rock climbing and bouldering, and one sees many climbers accoutred with extensive hardware and crash pads, but the scramble routes are far less well known.

California Fan Palm at 49 Palms Canyon. The first part of this scramble was a short and popular trail hike to the namesake Oasis. After this point, I saw no one scrambling up the canyon.
Some riverine rocks in 49 Palms Canyon. Eventually I thought it too risky to proceed up the canyon. Though a long, arduous work-around was possible, I turned around at that point.
An initial view back to the trailhead as I headed up Rattlesnake Canyon. The trailhead is near the Indian Cove campground and the initial portion is the most popular and arguably the most spectacular.
A Pinyon Pine finds its niche in Rattlesnake Canyon. I scrambled all the way out of the canyon and to a small stream that was flowing – a very rare sight in Joshua Tree.

Use full screen mode to view the video below:

Rock bowl after Rattlesnake Canyon
My friend John resting at lunch in Rattlesnake Canyon. This scramble was a second variant of Rattlesnake Canyon I did. Indeed, there are almost an infinite number of variants one could try in these canyons.
I also did two variants of the Gunsight scramble from Indian Cove. Here is a view NE to Indian Cove and the 29 Palms Marine Base
A Bladder Pod shrub in a sandy wash. Although common, this shrub is a pretty sight in early spring.
Detail of a Bladder Pod (Peritoma arborea) seen in the wash on the approach to the Indian Cove – Gunsight scramble.
Bernard and I trying to locate the use trail on an Oak Canyon Potholes loop recon. The scrambling here was straightforward, in washes and fairly gentle canyons, but since the trailhead was at the end of a gravel road and the trail disappeared shortly after the start, we saw no one else that Saturday. Bernard leads hikes for the Coachella Valley Hiking Club to which I belong.
Gorgeous rocks at a dry waterfall on the Oak Canyon Potholes loop
The Wonderland of Rocks from an overlook on the Oak Canyon Potholes loop

The Summits

The numerous desert peaks always seem to beckon to me. Apart from Ryan Mountain with its short, easy trail, and Quail Mountain, the high point in Joshua Tree, there is little risk of encountering others on a climb in or around the park. Such indeed was the case for the seven peaks more obscure I climbed this past winter, several of which I highlight here.

Wash walking view on the Joshua Mountain loop climb. This distinctive peak features a short but fun scramble to the summit. It is accessed from outside the park near the North Entrance Station.
View SW to Mount Mary from the pullout trailhead along Pinto Basin Road. Note the distinctive North Face.
Saguaro summit cactus on Mount Mary, to my knowledge, the only saguaro in the park.
Gneiss rocks seen on my descent of Mount Mary. I did a loop to add interest, making the climb a genuine traverse of the mountain.
Desert Globemallow (Sphaeralcea ambigua) seen on my approach to Mount Mary
Prickly pear on the approach from the O’Dell Rd trailhead to Queen Mountain, seen here in the background. This was the same trailhead used for the Oak Canyon Potholes scramble.
Mount San Jacinto vista from the beginning of the Queen Mountain ascent
Mount San Gorgonio from the summit of Queen Mountain
Hedgehog cactus on the Queen Mountain approach. Come in April to see flowering cacti.
Mojave Prickly Pear on the Queen Mountain approach
John and I attempted a trifecta of obscure peaks along Geology Tour and Berdoo Canyon Roads. Here is a view from Lela Peak towards the second and third peaks I would climb that day, Bernard and Little Berdoo, in the Little San Bernardino Mountains.
An Evening Primrose already in bloom near Lela Peak
My Subaru Crosstrek at the trailhead of Sheep Hole Mountain, off Amboy Rd in the Sheep Hole Mountain Wilderness, now part of Mojave Trails National Monument. I got an early start due to expected high temperatures.
Canyon rocks on the Sheep Hole Mountain ascent. The scrambling was excellent and my loop route took in a variety of terrain.
360 degree pano from Sheep Hole Mountain summit

I had intended to do a couple more peaks before heading to St George Utah for the spring, but as it turned out Sheep Hole Mountain was my final hike. I took a fall on the descent that cracked a couple of ribs. Other peaks will have to wait for my next trip to Joshua Tree. . .

The Coyote Casita

Highly recommended for one or two people if you are visiting the area is the Coyote Casita, an Airbnb listing in Wonder Valley outside of 29 Palms. The large patio with only the main house as a neighbor, a fire pit, and great sunrise and sunsets made it a wonderful choice for the five weeks.

Sunset alpenglow from my patio, looking East. Sheep Hole Mountain is in the background center, the Bullion Mountains on the left.
A roadrunner (pardon the poor picture quality, but these guys move quickly!) seen from my patio

I will be spending the spring in and around St George, Utah, recovering from my fall. This summer I have planned a four month trip to England, Italy, and several other European countries that will provide ample subject matter for numerous blogs. I’ll provide more details before I depart the US in late May.

Enjoy the spring season outdoors!

The Vagabond Hiker

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