The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Peak Lenin climb, Kyrgyzstan

I had been anticipating and training for this climb for nearly half a year.  On the morning of August 28, along with one other client and two guides, I successfully reached the summit of one of only five 7000-meter mountains in the former Soviet Union.  While not technically difficult, the climb was certainly one of the most physically and mentally challenging adventures I have undertaken.

By summit day, all other groups had started down the mountain or already left.  The increasingly cold, unpredictable weather was becoming problematic.  In a typical season (from June to August), Peak Lenin sees only a 30% success rate.  During the 16 days we spent on the mountain, the success rate wasn’t even that high.  While weather certainly accounted for some, and lack of physical conditioning accounted for others, as with many mountains, the mental challenges may have been the single greatest cause of failure.

These photos, which include some taken by our leader Stu Peacock and one from another client, document my experiences on Peak Lenin.

Personally, while I did indeed reach the top, I did so at a not insignificant cost.  The bitingly cold conditions, exacerbated by numerous small (and a couple not so small) decisions of mine and the guides, resulted in 2nd degree frostbite on seven of my fingers.  Eventually, that necessitated a medical evacuation back to the UK for more treatment and what will I’m certain prove to be months of healing to get full functionality and feeling back in my hands.

While expeditions like Peak Lenin can be wonderful experiences, spending weeks out in an amazing natural setting with like-minded individuals and insulated from the nastiness of world politics, they are not worth such sacrifices.  Recognizing and promptly treating the symptoms of maladies such as pulmonary and cerebral edema and frostbite, sometimes easier done in an arm chair than high on a mountain, are key to the safe enjoyment of some of nature’s greatest monuments.

The Vagabond Hiker

Peak Lenin on the approach drive to Base Camp (BC)
View of our BC ridge acclimatization walk
Flowers along an acclimatization ridge walk from BC. Jane, another client, is taking a photo in the background.
More late season flowers along the BC ridge acclimatization walk flowers
The north face of Peak Lenin at sunset from Base Camp
The vista along the hike from Base Camp (BC) to Advanced Base Camp (ABC), which in effect became our base camp until we left the mountain
Peak Lenin from Advanced Base Camp (ABC). The route ascends several hundred meters up the face, then traverses to the right behind the nearer features, before ascending the main summit ridge from right to left.
The route we took up a nearby ridge for an acclimatization camp from ABC
Jane on the route up to ABC acclimatization hike camp
The Vagabond Hiker at 5100 m at the ABC acclimatization camp
At the start of the glacier, about an hour out of ABC (Stu)
Resting on the glacier ascent from ABC to Camp 2 (Stu)
Heading up the glacier (Stu)
Two of our group above a glacier crevasse. The glacier had numerous crevasses, necessitating roped travel during most of the first day above ABC (Stu).
Stu on the glacier in the “Frying Pan” below Camp 2. He anchored our glacier ascent, with Andre leading the way at the front of the rope
Two of us heading up to Camp 2, seen as some yellow and orange tents on the rocks and snow in the center of the photo
Stu, Andre, and Jane at Camp 2. Andre, our local guide, was immensely strong and did porter duties also, bringing up our tents and stoves.
Camp 2 at 5300 m. Somehow I got this shot without showing any of the garbage piles.
What is known as “Pig Hill,” a tough climb up to camp 3
An atmospheric photo of climbers ascending Pig Hill up to Camp 3 (Stu)
By my tent at camp 3 (Jane)
Andre at Camp 3 during our acclimatization climb, looking up at the summit ridge (Stu)
Peck Lenin with clouds, taken from near Camp 3. Snow and high winds were also part and parcel of our time on the mountain.
During a rest break as we headed up to High Camp (Camp 4, 6400 meters) on the summit ridge (Stu)
Jane arriving at Camp 4. She and I were the only two clients (out of six) that would summit.
The Vagabond Hiker resting in our Camp 4 tent the afternoon prior to the summit day (Stu). We made an “alpine start” the next morning at 4:15 AM.
Peak Lenin summit view. We ascended from the right side here
On top of Pk Lenin, 7134 meters (23,405 ft) above sea level. The climb from Camp 4 took about 6 1/2 hrs. Removing my mittens even only for a minute or two proved a big mistake.
Surrounded by crevasses on the descent (Jane)
In the ABC mess yurt after the climb (Jane)

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