New Zealand

Day hikes in New Zealand’s Nelson-Tasman area

February 9, 2018

While the Great Walks such as the Milford and Abel Tasman Coast tracks garner most of the acclaim, there are many shorter hikes in New Zealand that offer some of the same scenery without all the trampers and with the prospect of a hot shower at the end of the day. The Nelson and Tasman districts in the north western portion of the South Island of New Zealand were on my doorstep, with a widely varied range of hikes and walks within an hour or so of my apartment. Spending six weeks here gave me a great opportunity to experience much of what the area has to offer.

Cable Bay track looking back to the hamlet of Glenduan with Tasman Bay behind. Some of the Cable Bay Track meandered through old growth forest; the rest traversed pine plantations and ranch land.

Foxgloves along the Cable Bay track north of Nelson. Another attempt to get a good photo of these colorful flowers.

Cable Bay track view to Sentinel Lookout and the privately-owned Pepin Island, about 20 km north of Nelson.

Nelson as seen from the “Center of New Zealand,” a marker on a small hill near town that supposedly is the geographic center of the country. Nelson itself is a wonderful town, with many cultural amenities within a beautiful setting.

Patio view from my Garden apartment in Wakefield, about 30 km south of Nelson. Ewan and Valerie cultivate more than two acres of flower and vegetable gardens and fruit trees.

First view toward Mt Arthur from along the popular Mt Arthur track, Kahurangi National Park, about an hour west of Wakefield.

A **bold** Weka near Mt Arthur Hut. These native birds remind me of wild chickens.

View along the Mt Arthur track with the summit visible as the long ridge in the background. The track gains about 900 meters elevation in 9 km to the summit.

Sub-alpine wildflowers along the Mt Arthur track

Vista from Mt Arthur summit (1795 meters) towards Tasman Bay. The track is partially visible on the right side here.

Hacket track, Mt Richmond Forest Park. This park is just to the east of where I have been staying in Wakefield. Although it offers some nice hiking, lots of logging and no real vistas detracted from the one hike I did here.

Lake Rotoiti from Paddy’s track, Nelson Lakes National Park. The village of St Arnaud is just past the lake, about 45 minutes’ drive from Wakefield. It is considered to be the northern-most portion of the Southern Alps.

Fantail in flight, Pinchgut track, Nelson Lakes Park. Another of my series of blurry fantails. . .

St Arnaud Range track, Nelson Lakes Park. Much of the track climbed through beech forest, with Red Beech, Silver Beech (shown here), and Mountain Beech predominating at different elevations.

Lake Rotoiti view from Parachute Rocks, St Arnaud Range track, Nelson Lakes Park. I hiked this track on my second of two day hikes in the park.

St Arnaud Range vista, Nelson Lakes Park. I stitched together 9 photos for this (admittedly a bit distorted) panorama. . .

Lakeside track view of Lake Rotoiti, Nelson Lakes Park. The entire lakeside track is a very long day hike, one I did not do as I prefer hikes that get above treeline.

View along Motueka sandspit. About 45 minutes from Wakefield on the Tasman Bay, the sandspit is about 3 km long and very popular with migrants – birds, that is.

Horse Mussels, Motueka spit. Along with other mulloscs, thousands of these mussels washed ashore here during the storm last week, much to the delight of the shorebirds.

A White faced heron seen at Motueka spit. Along with oystercatchers, terns, gulls, stilts, red knots, etc., I saw three dozen bar-tailed godwits. They have the distinction of making the the longest non-stop migration in the world, a single flight of more than 7000 miles in September each year from Alaska to Motueka.

For my final hike in New Zealand, I chose the challenging Parapara Peak track in Kahurangi National Park. It was deceptively easy at the start . . .

The Pariwhakaoho River. This was the first of many creek crossings along the Parapara Peak track.

The Parapara Peak track along the Copperstain Creek. Many landslides and washouts have disrupted the track, making for some slippery going in parts.

Golden Bay from Parapara Peak, Kahurangi National Park. After more than 1100 meters and several hours of often steep and slippery ascent, the track finally emerged into a sub-alpine zone with amazing vistas.

On top of Parapara Peak at about 1300 meters above sea level. The view was certainly worth the effort, and I only saw one other hiker all day.

It has been a great 11 weeks here in New Zealand. In 2009 when I visited I counted myself lucky to spend 8 days on the South Island!

Tomorrow I depart for Sri Lanka. It is a country I have wanted to visit for many years. I will spend two weeks on a group cultural/trekking trip and then the final 5 days scuba diving off the west coast. From there back to Europe for the spring. My calendar is updated to reflect some planned trips between now and July, including trekking the Huayhuash Circuit in Peru.

Keep hiking!

The Vagabond Hiker

A New Zealand road trip

January 11, 2018

After completing the Tongariro Alpine Crossing (see previous post), Maggie and I continued south on the North Island towards New Zealand’s windy capital of Wellington. While the city had its charms, including the Botanic Garden and some harbor-side restaurants, the three nights and two days spent in ‘windy Welly’ were sufficient. Since we fortuitously stayed on the coast a few miles outside of the city proper, we did enjoy a great coastal hike on one of the two days.

Owhira Bay, south of Wellington. It was a great choice to stay here rather than in the city. (Photo courtesy of Maggie)

After Wellington, we loaded the car and ourselves on the Inter Islander ferry for the 3-hour crossing of Cook Strait to Penticton on the South Island where we would stay for the rest of our road trip. We essentially made a counter-clockwise loop, heading from the Nelson area down the West Coast to Haast where we turned inland and over the Haast Pass to the Wanaka area in Central Otago. From there we headed south to the Catlins, near the southern tip of the South Island. After three nights in the Catlins, we drove up the East Coast to the Banks Peninsula near Christchurch and then completed the loop over the Lewis Pass to Nelson.

Throughout it all we did a series of short hikes, with one day-long hike of Isthmus Peak between Lakes Wanaka and Hawea. The following photos highlighting this road trip are, with the exception of the last one, in rough chronological order.

View along the Abel Tasman Coastal Track. Day hikers on the most popular of New Zealand’s many Tracks need boat transfers to the start and/or from the end points. (Photo courtesy of Maggie)

Fox Glacier and waterfall. Frankly, the glacier was not all that impressive, particularly since they only allowed you within 500 meters of the now-retreating glacier. When I was here in 2009 the glacier was advancing.

Sun-dappled forest on the Monro beach walk. It was a wonderful little excursion south of the two popular West Coast glaciers, Fox and Franz Josef.

View at Monro Beach. We were the only ones there, unlike earlier in the day at Fox Glacier, where we competed with hundreds of other hikers.

A Fantail on the Monro Beach walk (zoom). The wonderful range of bird calls and song made this coastal rain forest hike almost magical.

Another false summit on Isthmus Peak. Rather than driving to the Rob Roy track, we climbed more than 900 meters up this peak separating Lakes Wanaka and Hawea.

Lake Wanaka from Isthmus Peak summit (looking NW) with some of the snow-covered Southern Alps in the background.

Nugget Point light, the Catlins. Driving along the Southern Scenic highway, we stopped at least six different times for short hikes over the two full days we spent in South Otago.

Nugget Point seascape. Though difficult to see in this photo, there were dozens of southern fur seals hauled out on the ledges below.

Ubiquitous Foxgloves, seen here along Jack’s Blowhole track

The Southern Ocean from Jack’s Blowhole track. I discovered that the blowhole itself is not very photogenic at low tide!

Papatowai beach, the Catlins. It was a great little beach and forest walk off of the Southern Scenic Highway.

The Vagabond Hiker at windy Slope Point, the southernmost point on the South Island

Macrocarpa Trees at Slope Point. No points for guessing which way the wind blows. (Photo courtesy of Maggie)

Interesting tree morphology seen on the Cathedral Caves walk, the Catlins

View out to the Southern Ocean from the East entrance of Cathedral Cave. At nearly 200 meters in total length, Cathedral Cave is one of the longest sea caves in the world.

The Vagabond Hiker at McLean Falls, the most interesting easily-accessible waterfall in the area.

The end of the rainbow viewed from our place in the Catlins. We stayed on a rural farm south of Balclutha for three days over Christmas.

Summit Road view of Akaroa Bay on the Banks Peninsula southeast of Christchurch. I took several photos along Summit Road, but none was as good as this one taken by Maggie using her iphone.

Fur seals seen during our Akaroa harbor cruise on the Banks Peninsula

Standing on one of the Moeraki boulders, along the coast north of Christchurch.

With Maggie at Scott Base Winery, Cromwell, Central Otago. In case I gave the impression that it was all hiking….

I am settling in to my garden apartment in Wakefield (near Nelson) in the northern part of the South Island for the next month. It is less than a 2-hour drive to four different national parks from here, so I hope to have a few more photos for my next (and last) blog post from New Zealand.

Happy New Year to all,

Kent

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing

January 2, 2018

Happy New Year!

Normally my blogs have each incorporated a variety of hikes (and a few non-hike experiences) into one post. For this first post of 2018, I instead chose to focus on one epic hike, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. If you do one hike on New Zealand’s North Island, it should be the Tongariro Crossing. Truly a bucket-list hike, you will have plenty of company. While I did not spend a lot of time with photography this day, I did capture a few of the more memorable scenes. Enjoy!