The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

La Gomera – jewel of the Canaries

(with two bonus Tenerife hikes)

La Gomera is known as the Walkers Island due to a labyrinth of wonderful footpaths which snake through pockets of cloud forest, timeless villages and colorful flora. Its uninterrupted coastal views and dramatic volcanic landscapes make it the perfect destination for a Canary Islands walking holiday and a distinct change from my hikes on nearby Lanzarote (see by previous two blog posts from there). I spent six days walking this wonderful island with a KE Adventures group of 14 clients and a very knowledgeable, enthusiastic guide. We flew into Tenerife South airport and took the one hour ferry from Tenerife to the port of San Sebastian, the largest town on La Gomera. After a somewhat less than restful night at our hotel – due to Carnival – we transferred up to the Garajonay National Park for our first hike. . .

Physical Map of La Gomera. Roughly circular and about 14 miles in diameter, this rugged volcanic island has not had an eruption in millions of years. Red triangles indicate the towns and villages where we stayed. Garajonay National Park is seen in the center.
Some of our group of 14 clients and one guide heading through the cloud forest of Garajonay National Park on day 1
View from Alto de Garajonay (1484m), the high point on La Gomera. Strong winds from the southeast on our first couple of days walking brought a shroud of Saharan sand and disrupted flights in Tenerife, Gran Canaria and Lanzarote.
A zoom photo of a kestrel cowering from the wind at Alto de Garajonay. Buzzards were observed huddled in the forest rather than soaring this day.
A derelict vineyard house of typical Gomeran dry stone architecture in the village of Chipude where we stayed after our first day’s walk. The village, not this house.
A small parish church in Chipude’s square. Unlike in mainland Spain, the Canarians don’t seem to understand the concept of a plaza. If a town or village does have one, it is usually simply a large expanse of cement or paving stones.
The village of El Cercado at the start of our day 2 walk
Barranco del Agua, one of many deep ravines we crossed during the week
A forest path near Las Hayas, Garajonay National Park. Many of the paths at higher elevations were reminiscent of the island of Madeira (see my blog post from last March), with laurel and heather trees among many other species.
Our first view of Vallehermoso, where we stayed for two nights. Although the winds were reduced somewhat, visibility on day 2 was still fairly poor.
Coastal view from near the Hermitage of Santa Clara, seen on our circular walk from Vallehermoso on day 3.
Vallehermoso in the morning of day 4. Our guide’s family was from this picturesque town.
Another view of Vallehermoso, with Roque Cano on the right
A Tangier Pea (Lathyrus tingitanus)
Some of our group approaching the Mirador de Abrante on day 4. The desert-like landscape was quite a change from the cloud forest at higher elevations.
Atmospheric cliff-side view from the Mirador de Abrante as the mist rolls in. We hiked the very steep trail down to Agulo, seen below.
Coastal view from Agulo with the hamlet of Lepe and the fishing harbor of Hermigua beyond
Upper Hermigua, seen on the morning of day 5. Overall this town extends several kilometers along the valley.
A zoom photo of Pico del Teide (3718m, or 12,200 ft) taken from above Hermigua. This was our first view of the highest mountain in Spain, on the island of Tenerife.
Coastal view from above Hermigua. By day 5 the usual northeast trade winds had cleared the air.
Completing our circular walk on day 5, this is a view across Hermigua valley and beach, clearly showing the terraced agricultural fields that predominate on La Gomera
Pericallis steetzii, an aster endemic to La Gomera, seen at the start of day 6. For this final day hiking, we completed more than 12 miles on the long distance GR131 that crosses six of the Canary Islands.
Detail of Blue Tajinaste, another Canarian endemic, with a bee
Vista from the Mirador del Morro de Agando, one of the most spectacular viewpoints on the island
Detail of the laurisilva forest at Garajonay National Park. The laurel branches contain whole ecosystems.
Vista of Pico del Teide with Blue Tajinaste in the foreground
An old holloway in Garajonay National Park. The park occupies about 15 square miles in the center of La Gomera and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986.
Landscape looking south as we descended on the GR131 to San Sebastian. More farming terraces are evident here, as were signs of sheep and goats, although we never actually saw many. Most of the younger generation have left the hard rural life of La Gomera for the city in Tenerife or mainland Spain.
The port of San Sebastian. We had come full circle on the island!

After a week on La Gomera, rather than return to depressing weather in England, I chose to extend my holiday with four nights in Vilaflor, at 1400 meters (about 4600 ft) the highest town on the island of Tenerife and one of the highest in Spain. It is located on the southern flanks of el Teide and is a convenient base for any number of walks. Although I didn’t climb el Teide due to the red tape, I did go on a couple of wonderful nearby hikes. . .

The town plaza in Vilaflor, start of my first hike, the popular Paisaje Lunar
Vilaflor from near the start of the Paisaje Lunar hike
Abandoned-looking farm seen on the Paisaje Lunar loop hike
Paisaje Lunar trail through the Parque Natural Corona Forestal. The pine trees are Pinus canariensis and this nature reserve contains perhaps the largest surviving tract of these trees.
A rock formation in the Parque Natural Corona Forestal.
Lunar landscape at about 2000m (6560 ft) elevation, which gives the walk its name. It is a bit reminiscent of Bryce Canyon in Utah (zoom)
A fine example of Pinus canariensis, seen on the return loop
My second hike was the traverse of Alto de Guajara, the fourth highest mountain on Tenerife at 2717 meters (8914 ft). Here Pico del Teide, the Parador at the trailhead (bottom center), and the Roques de Garcia (on the left) may be seen.
From the Alto de Guaraja summit, Gran Canaria may be seen above the clouds. My first visit to the Canaries was two weeks on that island – 31 years ago!
Another view from the Alto de Guaraja summit. La Gomera is the island visible behind the rocks in the center of the photo.
A female Gallotia galloti galloti, the Southern Tenerife Lizard. I had just woken her up, which is why she stayed still for this photo.
Utah-like rock formations on the descent from the peak. I couldn’t resist some illicit scrambling.

After a 15 hour layover at Heathrow, later today I leave for my first “city break” in 2020 – Lisbon. Following three days in the Portuguese capital, I will spend nearly two weeks walking on the Cape Verde Islands, located in the Atlantic off the coast of Senegal, about 1000 miles south of the Canaries.

Wherever you may happen to be, keep walking and enjoying nature.

The Vagabond Hiker

Lanzarote redux

I had no intention of posting another blog on Lanzarote as I thought last year’s was sufficient to cover this island off the coast of Africa. (I clearly haven’t applied the same reasoning to the Dolomites in Italy, from where I have posted no fewer than four times over the past two years)! However, in looking back at last December’s post, I thought there was quite a bit more I could add from this year’s experiences without committing the sin of redundancy. So, with that in mind hare are a few photos I took with my phone over the last five weeks.

View south along the coast path connecting Puerto del Carmen to Playa Quemada. This view is taken at the Barranco del Quiquera. Puerto Calero is where you see all the white buildings and boats in harbor.
A view looking up the Barranco del Quiquera. This red bush is a close as I saw to a Christmas tree in Lanzarote. Barranco means ravine in Spanish.
Early morning coastal path view of the harbor in Puerto del Carmen. Most of my coastal walks were in the mornings. Here I got a particularly early start.
A wall with Bougainvillea and a cat along the coast path. Local good Samaritans kept them fed and watered. The cats, that is.
Vista near the GR131 with Montaña Guardilama in the background. The GR131 long distance path connects all the Canary Islands, although I didn’t see anyone through hiking it on this day.
View south from the slopes of Guardilama, the fourth highest “mountain” on Lanzarote. The textures on the land on the right here are half moon dry-stone walls to protect agricultural plants from the ubiquitous winds.
Lichen on the Guardilama summit. The lichen always grows on the south and south west sides of the volcanic rock, protected from the trade winds.
Lemon bush at Bodega La Geria. Here you can see the construction of the dry-stone walls. This winery has some excellent local wines, particularly their dry white Malvasias, produced under some very challenging conditions.
A water feature and mural of the artist César Manrique’s home in Tahiche. According to Wikipedia, Manrique “had a major influence on the planning regulations on Lanzarote following his recognition of its potential for tourism and lobbied successfully to encourage the sustainable development of the industry”.
One of Manrique’s sculptures at Tahiche.
Manrique’s small pool at his home, which is now a foundation featuring many of his art works and photography.
A subterranean lava room at Manrique’s home. The tree is growing through a natural hole in the lava ceiling. There were several habitable spaces such as this in his home.
A view towards Montaña Tahiche from the wall bordering Manrique’s home. I just love all the flowers in the middle of December!
I spent a pleasant hour strolling around the Jardín de Cactus in Guatiza. There are over 450 species of cactus in this botanical garden that was a former quarry.
Finally, a sunset view from my apartment’s terrace near the old town of Puerto del Carmen.

Currently I’m back in rainy England for a couple of days before heading across the pond to Colombia, where I will send out my year-end post with some of my plans for 2020. Until then, enjoy the holiday season,

The Vagabond Hiker

East Sussex and the South Downs Way

Rain during the last two days here on Lanzarote gave me time to pull together some of the photos from the south of England I’ve taken this past year. Throughout 2019 when I haven’t been traveling, Hastings and the surrounding area of East Sussex on the south coast of England have been my home. Interesting topography, a relatively convenient location, and the English Channel all contributed to my choice. In 2020 I plan on even more extensive travel, centering on Europe, the Middle East, Central Asia, and Africa. Between trips, however, I will once again find myself on England’s South Coast, so I thought I would share some of my photos, including highlights of a two day circular hike on the South Downs Way.

Hastings Pier and a spring storm. This photo was from an AirBnb rental on the Grand Parade in St Leonards, the town immediately adjoining Hastings to the West.
A late afternoon view from the balcony of another AirBnb apartment I rented in St Leonards. These sea front apartments were reasonably priced in the off season, but were too expensive for me during the summer.
Warrior Square in St Leonards, allegedly the largest waterfront garden in England
Rocklands on East Hill seen from Hastings Country Park. I discovered Rocklands from hiking in the area and have made it my home in Hastings ever since. The apartment building is to the right of the brick Rocklands House, partially hidden by a chestnut tree.
Sunrise from the balcony of my apartment in Rocklands. The property is surrounded on three sides by the park. Very peaceful as it allows neither children nor dogs, it is only a 15 minute walk down (and about 20 minutes back up!) to all the amenities of Hastings Old Town.
Another coastal view in Hastings Country Park. The yellow shrubs are gorse. At over 850 acres, the park is a fantastic and diverse area for hiking, picnicking, and simply enjoying nature. And some days there is sun!
Church Square, Rye. I spent a long weekend in the nearby ancient town of Rye, attending a chamber music festival.
Castle Water, Camber. Within a short walk of Rye, it is a great location for watching both resident and migratory birds.
The restored Bodiam Castle, a National Trust property about a half hour drive along country lanes from Hastings. Nearby Hastings and Camber castle are just ruins, but Bodiam gives a good sense of medieval life, at least for the fortunate few.
Eastbourne, from the start of the South Downs Way. It is the next good-sized town, a half hour drive west of Hastings along the coast. The South Downs Way traverses about 100 miles along the chalk downs of Sussex and Hampshire, from here to Winchester. I walked a 21 mile, two day circular portion.
View of chalk cliffs and the English Channel along the Seven Sisters, South Downs Way
Panorama of Cuckmere Haven and Seven Sisters Country Park from the South Downs Way, which headed inland here.
A picturesque cottage along the South Downs Way
Inland forest path along the South Downs Way
The bucolic Alfriston seen from the north loop of the South Downs Way
Unidentified pink flowers along the South Downs Way
Deans Place Hotel, Alfriston, where I spent the night. Decidedly not slumming!

I’m in the process of making some changes to this website. The most obvious is that I replaced the increasingly cumbersome Archives at the bottom of the Homepage with a drop down hierarchical Categories menu listing the continents and countries from which I’ve blogged. At least I’ll be able to find some of my earlier posts now!

I’ve tentatively planned most of my travel for 2020 and will share it with you in a couple of weeks in a year-end blog post. In the meantime, enjoy an active Holiday Season with family and friends!

The Vagabond Hiker

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