The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Back to the Balkans: Bosnia & Croatia

The second half of September found me returning to the Balkans after three weeks in the Dolomites of Italy.  This time, while the priority was not so much hiking per se, Maggie and I did get to experience some very diverse landscapes in the mountains of Bosnia and along the Dalmatian coast of Croatia. We interspersed the hikes with cultural touring in Mostar and Sarajevo in Bosnia and in Dubrovnik, Croatia, enjoying seafood and local wines throughout our journeys.

In Bosnia, we stayed for three nights at an authentic old farmhouse, which was our base for hiking in Sutjeska National Park. This park, established in 1962, is Bosnia’s oldest.  It includes the country’s highest peak, Maglić (2,386 meters) on the border with Montenegro.  The Strict Nature Reserve “Perućica”, one of the last two remaining primeval forests in Europe*, is also part of the park. The photos below are from the two very different hikes we took, a short wander in the Perućica reserve and a grueling round trip climb to the summit of Maglić.

*- The much larger Białowieża Forest in Poland and Belarus is the other.

A stream, Perućica Nature Reserve, Sutjeska National Park. Entry to the reserve is with a guide only. The host at our farmhouse accommodation just happened to be the park ranger in the reserve and invited us to hike there as his guests.
A colorful mushroom, perhaps dyer’s polypore, one of many we saw in Perućica.
A VERY large example of Sparassis crispa, or cauliflower mushroom, in Perućica Reserve.
Even more mushrooms, Perućica Reserve.
Trail heading to Lake Trnovacko from Prijevor, Sutjeska NP. The route we took to the summit of Mount Maglić was about 14 miles and had more than 3,500 ft of elevation gain.
Montenegrin border post at Lake Trnovačko. Fortunately, my driver’s license was sufficient for the guard/park ranger. Most of the hike was actually in Montenegro.
Mount Maglić (l) from Lake Trnovačko (Trnovačko Jezero).
After a stiff climb from the lake, a flattish plateau area brought us to Maglić’s summit block, which required a short scramble.
With Maggie on Mount Maglić’s summit (2386 meters)
The heart-shaped Lake Trnovačko from Maglić’s summit. Our climbing route was from the left side of the lake here.
Another view of Lake Trnovačko with clouds, on our descent

After Bosnia, we returned to the Dubrovnik area of Croatia’s Dalmatian coast. While the lovely walled city is teeming with tourists, we found two hikes to the north that were not so overrun: the walled town of Ston and the island of Lopud.  Both made for interesting day trips from our apartment a few kilometers north of Dubrovnik.

Village of Ston with salt pans, seen from one of the walls. The walls of Ston are longer than Dubrovnik, and claimed to be the longest walled fortification in Europe.
The walls extend to the nearby town of Mali Ston (Mali means “little”)
Our hike was a loop that involved some bush-whacking on the return to Ston. Here is a portion of the Ston walls that we saw on our return. Only part of the fortifications are currently open to the public.
A short ferry from Dubrovnik to The island of Lopud is only a short ferry ride from Dubrovnik.  Vehicle-free (except golf carts), there are many hiking trails that enabled us to more or less circumambulate the island.  Here are some Bougainvillea above the town of Lopud.
Vista from Sutvrač Fort towards Sipan. Although not quite two square miles in area, Lopud is the second largest island of the Elaphiti islands (after Sipan).  It is located less than 10 kilometers NW of Dubrovnik.
Sutvrač Fort goats
Sutvrač Fort wall with flowers
Vista point on the Northwest corner of Lopud. The peacefulness of the island was a dramatic change from the crowds of tourists a few miles away in Dubrovnik.

Tomorrow I leave for New Delhi to begin a three week trekking trip to the Garwhal Himalaya. Our group will be trekking in the region of Kumaon, Uttarakhand, just West of Nepal and bordering Tibet to the North.  On my return to the UK later this month I will post my next blog from my first trip to India.

Until then, enjoy the outdoors,

The Vagabond Hiker

 

 

Walks and Ferratas among the High Peaks of the Dolomites

Early morning a few hours before my flight to Dubrovnik Croatia, and I hastily dash off another blog post.  During the past three weeks I have done some easier hiking in the meadows and woods of the Dolomites as well as some adrenaline-pumping climbs on expert level via ferratas (VF), again with OnTop Mountaineering out of Canmore, Alberta.  First the easier hikes and walks…

Cencenighe Agordino. A late August morning view from my apartment after snowfall the night before.
View of Lago Alleghe. The giro di Alleghe was a pleasant one hour stroll around the lake.
View of part of the Civetta Massif from the Pian de Pelsa, following a 900m ascent on a gondola from the town of Alleghe.
Rigugio Coldai on Civetta. This hike was along the northwest flank of this mighty mountain.
Detail of Common Monkshood seen above Rifugio Coldai
Lago Coldai on Civetta’s Northwest flank
A Rhaetian poppy on Civetta
Willow-leaved Gentian seen on the descent through the woods from Civetta’s northwest flank
Lago Alleghe from the descent to Masare from Civetta’s northwest flank. The town of Alleghe is partially seen on the right side of the lake.
Meadow Saffron (aka Autumn Crocus) above Cencenighe. There were fields of these flowers in bloom.
Civetta in clouds from its eastern side during my circuit of Monte Pelmo hike. This day was the only one I was caught out in the rain.
Edelweiss near Passo Valles
A late season Gentian near Passo Valles
Cencenighe Agordino, behind my apartment. This road becomes the path that traverses high above the Cordevole Valley up to Lago Alleghe
Interesting mushroom on the path above the Cordevole valley
A typical view along the high level path above the Cordevole valley. It was wonderful finding such a lovely walk right out my back door.

And now the ferratas. All the photos with me in them were taken by another client, Ron, who was our unofficial photographer. My thanks to him for sharing these with me so quickly.

Climbing at the start of the Via Ferrata delle Trincee, with our guide Walter below me.
The Marmolada in clouds from the VF Trincee. We would climb it only 3 days later.
Climbing on VF delle Trincee, definitely expert grade, though not a particularly long route.
Our OnTop group on a VF della Trincee knife edge. Note the wooden bridge.
The Civetta Northwest face from VF della Trincee
Ron traversing on the VF Tomaselli with a lot of air beneath him
Me pulling over a crux on the VF Tomaselli
View of where we climbed up to Punta Sud on the VF Tomaselli. Despite appearances, it didn’t rain where we were that day.
The Moiazza (VF Costantini) in the early morning light. This was our longest day, about 11 hours and 1500 meters gain on this expert level ferrata.
Me climbing the VF Costantini
Smiling during a short rest on the VF Costantini
Monte Pelmo from Moiazza. This not-so-good photo shows the mountain from the south. I had just done the circuit the week before.
Our group that reached the top of Moiazza Sud (2878m)
Me descending a crux on the VF Costantini. My carabiner got caught on a U-bolt here, necessitating me using a Quick Draw to help free it.
Our full group on day 4, the VF Marmolada to the top of Marmolada.
Our group ascending an ice field on Marmolada. I am in front here
Another group heading up the Marmolada West Ridge VF route
Me with Miriam behind, ascending an easy snow field on Marmolada
View north from Punta Penia on the Marmolada, the highest in the Dolomites at 3343 m.
Punta Penia rifugio on Marmolada. They bring in supplies by helicopter, making the $4.50 for a soda a relative bargain.
Chopper seen hovering from Punta Penia. I’m not quite sure what that building is.
Panorama of me and others in our group hiking up to the VF Cesare Piazzetta on day 5. The top of this massif is Piz Boe, although our route didn’t go all the way to the summit.
Our guide Walter, with Ed and Luba behind, climbing the Piazzetta
Me on an ascending traverse of VF Cesare Piazzetta
Me crossing a bridge on the VF Cesare Piazzetta.
Our guide Walter having a well-earned rest at the gondola station after completing the VF Cesare Piazzetta.  Gondola ascents and/or descents were always welcome wherever possible.

My next post will be at the beginning of October after my hikes in Croatia and Bosnia these next two weeks. Until then, enjoy the autumn outdoors,

The Vagabond Hiker

 

The Brenta Dolomites: the Via Ferrata Bocchette

Back in Italy after my brief sojourn in the Balkans, I headed to Madonna di Campiglio, a small ski town in the winter that in the summer is transformed into an excellent base for hiking and climbing the Brenta Dolomites.  Lying west of the Adige Valley, the Brenta Group, while geographically separate from the rest of the Dolomites, are, geologically identical.    Furthermore, they boast a fantastic multi-day high level traverse that incorporates several via ferratas* and some sublimely-located rifugios*, or alpine huts.  (For those of you not familiar with via ferratas, or the “iron way,” they are made up of cables and ladders into which one can clip, often using a special ferrata lanyard.  Helmets and harnesses are obligatory).

Along with another client, I did a 5-day traverse with a local guide, staying in four different rifugios along the way.  Highlights from the week are shown in the following photos.  Those with me in them were taken by our guide, Martino.  All others are mine.  Enjoy!

* –  the correct Italian plural for rifugio is rifugi and for ferrata is ferrate

Madonna di Campiglio from my garret room in the Hotel Arnica
A view of the Brentas as we approach them from the north on the first day. We took the gondola lift up to about 1900 meters, saving a long slog to the start of our north-to-south route.
A view with Rhaetian poppies on day 1 of the five day traverse.  Late in the season, we didn’t see many flowers at elevations ranging from 1900 to 3173 meters.
Our guide, Martino, leading, with the other client, Elaine, on a ledge traverse on the Via Benini on day 1. The first day featured some easy wide ledges such as this one, along with numerous ladders.
Early morning view above Rifugio Tuckett on day 2. Staying in high level rifugios, we were able to reach the start of the ferratas in an hour or less each morning.
View down to Lago Molveno
A panorama with me on the Bochette Alta
Climbing on the Bochette Alta on day 2.
A vista from the Bocchette Alta
Dawn alpenglow on day 3, seen from the Rifugio Alimonta
At the top of the glacier we ascended on day 3, looking back towards the Rifugio Alimonta. These rifugios charge about 50 Euros for a bed in a dorm room with half board (dinner and breakfast).
A long ladder heralded the start of the day 3 Via Ferrata Bochette Centrale
Other climbers behind us after the glacier climb. We left the rifugio at about 6:30 to get a head start on some large, slow groups.
On an exposed section of the Bochette Centrale. This day had arguably the best climbing of the entire trip.
Me waving to the camera on ledge traverse of the Bocchete Centrale
Showing the ferrata lanyard rig tied into my harness
Watching the mist roll in while on a ledge traverse
Some rare greenery, looking down from Via Ferrata Bochette Centrale
Rifugio Tosa, our home for the third night
Elaine and Martino heading up for our afternoon climb near Rifugio Tosa, day 3. Most days we arrived early in the afternoon, after about 6-7 hours of ferratas. Here the good weather and some ropes and hardware supplied by the rifugio staff made for a fun addition to the schedule.
A quick rest break on our climb, with Elaine. Having an certified local guide paid huge dividends.
Rifugio Tosa from our afternoon climb.
Sunrise on day 4 from Rifugio Tosa
Early morning alpenglow and rainbow segment from the Rifugio Tosa. It was definitely worthwhile getting up a half hour early this day!
Rifugio Tosa in the morning light
Cima Tosa south wall which we climbed on day 4. This was another addition Martino made to the schedule as the weather looked good and we had been making excellent time each day.
Climbing with Elaine on Cima Tosa. Mostly it was scrambling, but there was a lot of exposure in places.
Cima Tosa summit with Madonna. It is the highest peak in the Brenta Group at 3173 meters (10,410 ft).
Panorama from the Cima Tosa summit, showing the Alps off to the northwest
A view of the Brenta Dolomites, including the Campanile Basso seen on the left here
Martino and others descending to the Rifugio Agostini on day 4
View from my Rifugio Agostini bunk. Everything was supplied for sleeping, apart from a mandatory sleeping bag liner.
Climbing with Elaine on day 5, with an amazing backdrop
On our final ferrata descent on day 5. I’m in the lower middle of the photo here.
Vista with fireweed (Rosebay Willowherb) on the final day on our way down to the valley
Rifugio Brentei on our final descent. We stopped for a coffee here.

Currently I am renting an apartment in the small town of Cencenighe Agordino in the province of Belluna in the Dolomites, doing some “low level” hiking when the unsettled weather permits. Next week I will be doing some more via ferratas, including on the Marmolada and on the Civetta, two famous nearby  mountains.  Until my next blog,

keep on hiking!

The Vagabond Hiker

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