The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Hiking Southwest Utah, Part 2

As my time winds down in Utah and my focus shifts to the numerous overseas trips this summer, I’d like to share some more photos from hiking the past two years in this amazing place. I think they speak more eloquently than words about what draws me to keep returning here. Except for two, all photos were all taken in Washington County, the Southwestern most county in Utah.

BLM-managed lands

The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) administers one of every ten acres in the United States. The local field office in St. George manages public lands in Washington County in the “Three Corners” area where the Utah, Arizona, and Nevada meet. The southern region of the Great Basin, and the northern part of the Mojave Desert merge here at Utah’s lowest elevation of 2,000 feet above sea level. The field office includes two national conservation areas and 15 wilderness areas, to totaling approximately 630,000 acres of public land located at the convergence of three different ecoregions: the Mojave Desert, Great Basin, and Colorado Plateau.

Dwarf Bearclaw Poppy (Arctomecon humilis) and pollinator, St. George Utah. There exists only a handful of sites of this endangered poppy species
The Vagabond Hiker in a Cole Spring slot canyon, near Gunlock Reservoir northwest of St. George. A hidden gem amongst pinyon-juniper scrub-land.
Early morning vista from the West Cinder Knoll trail, Hurricane Utah, part of the Red Cliffs Reserve
Colorado Four O’clock (Mirabilis multiflora), West Cinder Knoll Trail
Helping with the removal of graffiti on a petroglyph panel, Canaan Mountain Wilderness. This wilderness, adjacent to the southern boundary of Zion National Park, consists of nearly 45,000 acres.
The Vagabond Hiker above the Eagle Crags trail, Canaan Mountain Wilderness
Quail Creek in the Cottonwood Canyon Wilderness. This is a very popular hike/scramble in the area.
A field of Filaree (stork’s-bill), Cottonwood Canyon Wilderness. The snow-covered Pine Valley Mountains provide a backdrop. I spent many days this past spring in Cottonwood Canyon as a Wilderness Steward, picking up litter, making sure signage is in good condition, removing graffiti, etc.
Another view of the Cottonwood Canyon Wilderness, which consists of nearly 12,000 acres.
Likely a Prairie Prickly-pear cactus blooming, Red Cliffs National Conservation Area
The Virgin River, Hurricane. A five minute walk from my most recent AirBnb house, this is the first season I have ever seen such a sustained high flow.
Confluence Park, LaVerkin, with another view of the Virgin River. LaVerkin is the next town to the north of Hurricane. (This and the preceding photo were on locally owned park land).
A slot canyon in Mineral Gulch, east of Zion (Kane County). Autumn light in the slots makes it a great time to hike.
Mineral Gulch in the autumn. One of the other hikers on a hike I led took this fantastic photo.
Snow Canyon State Park and the Pine Valley Mountains, from the Red Mountain Wilderness. The high point of the Pine Valley Mountains, Signal Peak, is about 10,400 ft in elevation.

Snow Canyon State Park

The previous photo provides a good segue to our premier state park in Washington County. Several other state parks center around reservoirs in the county, but Snow Canyon (its name derives from two Mormon pioneers who helped settle the area in the 1860s) is the most popular, and to me by a long way the most spectacular.

Some Outback Hiking Club members on Snow Canyon’s great sandstone.
The Vagabond Hiker on Island in the Sky, Snow Canyon State Park. Note the park road in the extreme lower left. Island is a short but challenging scramble route for which one needs a canyoneering (!) permit.
Climbing the chimney crux, Island in the Sky. I lead about one hike per month with Outback, which has been around for more than 30 years.
Climbing a flake on the Diedre Peak loop, Snow Canyon
Quail Creek State Park Reservoir with Pine Valley Mountains in the background. This reservoir is less than a mile as the crow flies from my AirBnb home in Hurricane. The Pine Valley Mountains rarely have this much snow on the south side, especially in March.

Zion National Park

In a sense, perhaps I saved the best until last! Zion National Park in Washington and Kane Counties, Utah, was the second most popular National Park in 2021, with more than 5 million visitors, a number that has doubled in little more than a decade. It consists of more than 145,000 acres and ranges in elevation from 3670 feet in Coal Pits Wash to 8720 feet on Horse Ranch Mountain. The great majority of visitors stay in the Main Canyon, using a shuttle bus system to explore that spectacular area.

However, Zion is much more than the Main Canyon. All of these photos were taken on hikes I did in other, less frequented (and in some cases rarely visited) areas of the park.

Gregory Butte (left) and Timbertop from Mt. Langston. Kolob Arch, one of the largest in the world, is below and to the right of Gregory Butte. It is difficult to see in this photo as there is no daylight behind it. Mt. Langston with its Ponderosa Pine forest summit dome, is one of the most remote in Zion, and rarely climbed.
A hiker in The Narrows, Zion NP. A friend got a permit and organized a Narrows top-down day hike last spring. High snowfall and the subsequent spring runoff has closed this iconic 15 mile canyon hike this year. (Technically, the lower portion of the Narrows is in the Main Canyon).
View of the East (right side) and West (left side) Temples, Zion. A friend and I scrambled three peaks known as the Triplets last autumn on the East Side of Zion, from where this photo was taken.
A vista South from a high ridge on the East Side. The peaks in the middle are the Triplets.
One of the main attractions of the East Side of Zion is all the sandstone. Our horseshoe hike here took in miles of this fun slick-rock.
Jolley Gulch waterfall. Another East Side hike I did recently, from the East Entrance to the plateau overlooking the main canyon, 18 miles out and back. This waterfall is usually no more than a trickle.
The Big Bend of the Virgin River, viewed from the Cableworks on the plateau one half mile vertically above the Main Canyon. The Cableworks were used last century to lower timber for construction in the park. The renowned Angel’s Landing can be seen directly above the bend, rising about 1/2 way up to the plateau to the west.
Trail Canyon icicles, Cougar Mountain. Cougar Mountain rises from the Southwest Desert sector of Zion, and though very prominent to the East when driving along the southern portion of Kolob Reservoir Road, it is a long, complex hike and climb to the summit, rarely attempted.
Sweet Arch, Cougar Mountain. This diminutive (perhaps 5′ tall) free-standing arch near the summit is sweet indeed.
The Guardian Angels, seen from East Northgate Peak in the Kolob Terrace sector of Zion. North Guardian is closer, with South Guardian appearing from behind it. North Guardian Angel is a relatively short hike from the trailhead, but involves steep slickrock friction climbing. Although probably less than one mile separates these peaks, several hours of intense hiking and scrambling through amazingly complex topography are required to summit the isolated South Guardian Angel. I’ve only managed it once, despite several attempts.
A tufted evening primrose (Oenothera caespitosa), taken on a hike up South Guardian Angel.

And one final photo, from my condo in St. George two years ago. . .

Sunset from my balcony, February 2021 (zoom).

Where to next?

My main summer trekking trips have all been planned. Details of timing can be seen using the Calendar Tab above right. I will be returning to the Lago Garda area of northern Italy for 5 weeks in late May through most of June. The following 3 months I will be based in southeast England, not far from Heathrow Airport. A small AirBnb (what else?) annexe (casita), located within walking distance to both Windsor Great Park and Runnymede (where the Magna Carta was signed a while ago) will provide me some down time between my monthly trekking and culture trips:

July: Armenia and Georgia. Trekking, hiking, and culture will feature equally in these ancient Caucasus countries, formerly part of the Soviet Union, situated between the Black and Caspian Seas.

August: K2 Base-camp trek, Pakistan. Long on my bucket list, fingers crossed the febrile political situation calms down a bit for this epic trek.

September: Tajikistan & Uzbekistan. Two of the ‘stans I have yet to visit. Five days trekking around some amazing lakes in the Fann Mountains (part of the Pamirs) of Tajikistan will be followed by a week touring the ancient silk road cities of Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva in Uzbekistan.

Several shorter (long weekend type) trips this summer, some still in the planning stages, should provide some photos for additional short blog posts.

Enjoy your summer hiking, wherever you may be,

The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking Southwest Utah and Beyond, Part 1

Southern Nevada and the Arizona Strip

Although I have published a number of blogs from my travels around the US, despite spending about 10 months in St George, Utah in the past two years, I have been remiss in describing any of my hikes in this wonderful part of the country. This post is the first of two that will attempt to remedy that omission.

Driving North from Las Vegas to St George Utah on Interstate 15, one observes a number of desert peaks and ranges in southern Nevada before entering the dramatic Virgin River Gorge in Arizona, part of a narrow belt of land in Mojave County Arizona completely cut off from the rest of the state by the Grand Canyon.

Nevada

Autumn morning light, Charleston Peak, Spring Mountains Nevada. North of Las Vegas, Charleston Peak (11,918 ft) is the highest peak in southern Nevada and the 8th most prominent mountain in the lower 48. Amazingly, it was actually possible to do the 19 mile loop hike to the summit in a very long day from St George.
A gnarled Bristlecone Pine on Charleston Peak. Some of these hardy trees are several thousand years old. Amazing survivors!
Lynda down-climbing on Muddy Peak, the most interesting – though not the highest – of the Muddy Mountains east of Las Vegas. A long 4WD drive from the highway made it even more special.
A creamsicle sandstone formation in Hidden Valley, at the base of Muddy Peak.
Moapa Peak, to the north of I15 in Nevada, is the second highest peak of the Mormon Mountains. Here is some interesting Class 3 climbing enroute to the summit.
The Vagabond Hiker hanging on the knife-edge summit ridge of Moapa Peak. There is about 1000 ft of air under my heels. A desert classic that I am leading once again this coming week.
On Davidson Peak summit, the Little Mormon Mountains, Nevada. This climb, though not particularly difficult, was much more interesting than I had assumed.
Gold Butte National Monument is an amazing place Southwest of Mesquite, Nevada. Here is an especially complex eroded sandstone formation.
Some Joshua Trees in Gold Butte. They are actually succulents, not trees.
The Newspaper Rock petroglyph, Gold Butte. The monument is an archeological showcase of the native Paiute culture.

Arizona

Virgin River Gorge from the summit of Shadow Mountain, at the southern entrance to the Gorge. Glorious!
View of Virgin River Gorge from Peak 4302 in the Beaver Dam Wilderness, on the north side of the Gorge. Note the swollen, muddy river from all the rain this past winter.
Posing with a milk-vetch, Beaver Dam Wilderness
Taking a picture from Cedar Pocket Ridge in the Gorge
Peak 5060 from the south, off of Cedar Pockets Rd. Note the Joshua Tree in bloom. As far as I knew, this peak, high point of the Beaver Dam Mountains in Arizona, had never been climbed from this side, so I had to try. . .
An interesting rock “face” on Peak 5060. My attempt summitting from the south was without success.
The Shiprock formation in the Gorge. Scrambling to the top made an otherwise easy hike along the Gorge much more exciting.
20230419_094334_Western Redbud_Blackrock Canyon
Western Redbud, Blackrock Canyon at the north end of Virgin River Gorge. Despite the difficult lighting, one can appreciate the beauty of these flowering trees in such an arid landscape.
View southwest from Mt Dellenbaugh, just to the north of the Grand Canyon in Arizona. Talk about remote: it’s 70 miles’ drive from a paved road. Three members of John Wesley Powell’s 1869 expedition exited from the Canyon here and were never seen again.

The final part of this two-part blog post should be ready in the next week or two, given time between upcoming hiking and backpack trips.

The Vagabond Hiker

Far from the Madding Crowd around Joshua Tree

Since I first visited Joshua Tree National Park in Southern California about fifteen years ago, the number of visitors has more than doubled to over 3 million per year. Like other wildly popular parks such as Yosemite in California and Zion in Utah, the vast majority of the visitors congregate in a few areas. The Main Canyon in Zion National Park, Yosemite Valley in Yosemite National Park, and at the many pullouts along Park Boulevard in Joshua Tree National Park. These areas have three aspects in common: 1) spectacular scenery for quick Instagrams; 2) short, easy trails catering to a largely sedentary population; and 3) proximity to a paved road.

Once beyond the limited areas that meet all three of these three criteria, however, the hiker is amply rewarded with solitude, beauty, and the thrill of being Far from the Madding Crowd (apologies to Thomas Gray). In and around Joshua Tree National Park, the outdoor adventurer has options of longer, more remote trails, off-trail scramble routes in canyons and on innumerable rock formations, and summit climbs of the myriad peaks that abound in this area, on the border of the Mojave and Sonoran Deserts. In this blog I will highlight some of the hikes, scrambles, and climbs that I did over a five week period in February and March this year, as well as show a couple photos taken from my casita outside the town of Twentynine Palms.

The Trails

To escape the crowds on maintained trails at first seems nigh-on impossible, but such is not the case. First, go mid-week. Avoid the weekends like the plague. (If you’re supposed to be working, take a mental health day). Second, go early in the morning. The light is better anyway, and for at least half of your hike you’ll see no one. Third, find a longer trail that starts away from Park Boulevard, preferably off some gravel or dirt road. Yes, these do exist! They just aren’t the ones the Park Rangers will tell you about unless you repeatedly prod them.

Desert Queen Mine Extended loop. I cobbled together several trails from the Desert Queen Mine trailhead to achieve an interesting, 9 mile loop. This is an early morning view with some discarded equipment foreground.
The Eagle Cliffs boulder house near the Dessert Queen Mine. In California this qualifies as affordable housing!
Phacelia (Desert Bells) seen along the trail. February was a little early for most flowers; April is the best time for botanizing in Joshua Tree.
Teddy bear cholla and monzonite granite formations
A twelve stamp mill on the Lost Horse Mine loop trail. This mine was the most profitable of the early 20th century mines in the future park. I added a 1/2 mile excursion to the Lost Horse Mountain summit for great views. Go early to get parking and avoid the crowds – at least for the first half of the hike.
A Joshua Tree budding along the Stubbe Springs loop. This 13 mile loop off of Keys View Road is one one that sees few visitors despite the generally well-maintained trail.
Fan Canyon overlook view to Coachella Valley along the Stubbe Springs loop. It was a great lunch spot nearly 5000 ft above the valley floor.
Amboy Crater south rim view, Mojave Trails National Monument. This 10,000 year old lava field was only a 40 minute drive from my casita in 29 Palms, but a world away from Joshua Tree. A four mile loop hike in the early morning was well-recompensed with great views and few other visitors. (In Joshua Tree, the easy hike to Malapai Hill off of Geology Tour Road offers similar terrain).

The Scrambles

Of course the main reason I wanted to stay near Joshua Tree was not the trails, but the great scrambling opportunities, mainly on the monzonite granite rocks and riverine boulders. The park is world-renown for its rock climbing and bouldering, and one sees many climbers accoutred with extensive hardware and crash pads, but the scramble routes are far less well known.

California Fan Palm at 49 Palms Canyon. The first part of this scramble was a short and popular trail hike to the namesake Oasis. After this point, I saw no one scrambling up the canyon.
Some riverine rocks in 49 Palms Canyon. Eventually I thought it too risky to proceed up the canyon. Though a long, arduous work-around was possible, I turned around at that point.
An initial view back to the trailhead as I headed up Rattlesnake Canyon. The trailhead is near the Indian Cove campground and the initial portion is the most popular and arguably the most spectacular.
A Pinyon Pine finds its niche in Rattlesnake Canyon. I scrambled all the way out of the canyon and to a small stream that was flowing – a very rare sight in Joshua Tree.

Use full screen mode to view the video below:

Rock bowl after Rattlesnake Canyon
My friend John resting at lunch in Rattlesnake Canyon. This scramble was a second variant of Rattlesnake Canyon I did. Indeed, there are almost an infinite number of variants one could try in these canyons.
I also did two variants of the Gunsight scramble from Indian Cove. Here is a view NE to Indian Cove and the 29 Palms Marine Base
A Bladder Pod shrub in a sandy wash. Although common, this shrub is a pretty sight in early spring.
Detail of a Bladder Pod (Peritoma arborea) seen in the wash on the approach to the Indian Cove – Gunsight scramble.
Bernard and I trying to locate the use trail on an Oak Canyon Potholes loop recon. The scrambling here was straightforward, in washes and fairly gentle canyons, but since the trailhead was at the end of a gravel road and the trail disappeared shortly after the start, we saw no one else that Saturday. Bernard leads hikes for the Coachella Valley Hiking Club to which I belong.
Gorgeous rocks at a dry waterfall on the Oak Canyon Potholes loop
The Wonderland of Rocks from an overlook on the Oak Canyon Potholes loop

The Summits

The numerous desert peaks always seem to beckon to me. Apart from Ryan Mountain with its short, easy trail, and Quail Mountain, the high point in Joshua Tree, there is little risk of encountering others on a climb in or around the park. Such indeed was the case for the seven peaks more obscure I climbed this past winter, several of which I highlight here.

Wash walking view on the Joshua Mountain loop climb. This distinctive peak features a short but fun scramble to the summit. It is accessed from outside the park near the North Entrance Station.
View SW to Mount Mary from the pullout trailhead along Pinto Basin Road. Note the distinctive North Face.
Saguaro summit cactus on Mount Mary, to my knowledge, the only saguaro in the park.
Gneiss rocks seen on my descent of Mount Mary. I did a loop to add interest, making the climb a genuine traverse of the mountain.
Desert Globemallow (Sphaeralcea ambigua) seen on my approach to Mount Mary
Prickly pear on the approach from the O’Dell Rd trailhead to Queen Mountain, seen here in the background. This was the same trailhead used for the Oak Canyon Potholes scramble.
Mount San Jacinto vista from the beginning of the Queen Mountain ascent
Mount San Gorgonio from the summit of Queen Mountain
Hedgehog cactus on the Queen Mountain approach. Come in April to see flowering cacti.
Mojave Prickly Pear on the Queen Mountain approach
John and I attempted a trifecta of obscure peaks along Geology Tour and Berdoo Canyon Roads. Here is a view from Lela Peak towards the second and third peaks I would climb that day, Bernard and Little Berdoo, in the Little San Bernardino Mountains.
An Evening Primrose already in bloom near Lela Peak
My Subaru Crosstrek at the trailhead of Sheep Hole Mountain, off Amboy Rd in the Sheep Hole Mountain Wilderness, now part of Mojave Trails National Monument. I got an early start due to expected high temperatures.
Canyon rocks on the Sheep Hole Mountain ascent. The scrambling was excellent and my loop route took in a variety of terrain.
360 degree pano from Sheep Hole Mountain summit

I had intended to do a couple more peaks before heading to St George Utah for the spring, but as it turned out Sheep Hole Mountain was my final hike. I took a fall on the descent that cracked a couple of ribs. Other peaks will have to wait for my next trip to Joshua Tree. . .

The Coyote Casita

Highly recommended for one or two people if you are visiting the area is the Coyote Casita, an Airbnb listing in Wonder Valley outside of 29 Palms. The large patio with only the main house as a neighbor, a fire pit, and great sunrise and sunsets made it a wonderful choice for the five weeks.

Sunset alpenglow from my patio, looking East. Sheep Hole Mountain is in the background center, the Bullion Mountains on the left.
A roadrunner (pardon the poor picture quality, but these guys move quickly!) seen from my patio

I will be spending the spring in and around St George, Utah, recovering from my fall. This summer I have planned a four month trip to England, Italy, and several other European countries that will provide ample subject matter for numerous blogs. I’ll provide more details before I depart the US in late May.

Enjoy the spring season outdoors!

The Vagabond Hiker

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