The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

East Sussex and the South Downs Way

Rain during the last two days here on Lanzarote gave me time to pull together some of the photos from the south of England I’ve taken this past year. Throughout 2019 when I haven’t been traveling, Hastings and the surrounding area of East Sussex on the south coast of England have been my home. Interesting topography, a relatively convenient location, and the English Channel all contributed to my choice. In 2020 I plan on even more extensive travel, centering on Europe, the Middle East, Central Asia, and Africa. Between trips, however, I will once again find myself on England’s South Coast, so I thought I would share some of my photos, including highlights of a two day circular hike on the South Downs Way.

Hastings Pier and a spring storm. This photo was from an AirBnb rental on the Grand Parade in St Leonards, the town immediately adjoining Hastings to the West.
A late afternoon view from the balcony of another AirBnb apartment I rented in St Leonards. These sea front apartments were reasonably priced in the off season, but were too expensive for me during the summer.
Warrior Square in St Leonards, allegedly the largest waterfront garden in England
Rocklands on East Hill seen from Hastings Country Park. I discovered Rocklands from hiking in the area and have made it my home in Hastings ever since. The apartment building is to the right of the brick Rocklands House, partially hidden by a chestnut tree.
Sunrise from the balcony of my apartment in Rocklands. The property is surrounded on three sides by the park. Very peaceful as it allows neither children nor dogs, it is only a 15 minute walk down (and about 20 minutes back up!) to all the amenities of Hastings Old Town.
Another coastal view in Hastings Country Park. The yellow shrubs are gorse. At over 850 acres, the park is a fantastic and diverse area for hiking, picnicking, and simply enjoying nature. And some days there is sun!
Church Square, Rye. I spent a long weekend in the nearby ancient town of Rye, attending a chamber music festival.
Castle Water, Camber. Within a short walk of Rye, it is a great location for watching both resident and migratory birds.
The restored Bodiam Castle, a National Trust property about a half hour drive along country lanes from Hastings. Nearby Hastings and Camber castle are just ruins, but Bodiam gives a good sense of medieval life, at least for the fortunate few.
Eastbourne, from the start of the South Downs Way. It is the next good-sized town, a half hour drive west of Hastings along the coast. The South Downs Way traverses about 100 miles along the chalk downs of Sussex and Hampshire, from here to Winchester. I walked a 21 mile, two day circular portion.
View of chalk cliffs and the English Channel along the Seven Sisters, South Downs Way
Panorama of Cuckmere Haven and Seven Sisters Country Park from the South Downs Way, which headed inland here.
A picturesque cottage along the South Downs Way
Inland forest path along the South Downs Way
The bucolic Alfriston seen from the north loop of the South Downs Way
Unidentified pink flowers along the South Downs Way
Deans Place Hotel, Alfriston, where I spent the night. Decidedly not slumming!

I’m in the process of making some changes to this website. The most obvious is that I replaced the increasingly cumbersome Archives at the bottom of the Homepage with a drop down hierarchical Categories menu listing the continents and countries from which I’ve blogged. At least I’ll be able to find some of my earlier posts now!

I’ve tentatively planned most of my travel for 2020 and will share it with you in a couple of weeks in a year-end blog post. In the meantime, enjoy an active Holiday Season with family and friends!

The Vagabond Hiker

Bhutan’s Snowman Trek, Part 2: Lunana

Happy Thanksgiving from Lanzarote!

Among many blessings I have to be thankful for, the first which comes to mind is that it is sunny and 72 degrees here, perfect for hiking or swimming in the ocean (ok, the water is a bit cool). With Great Britain underwater and much of the US remaining in the grip of multiple storms, there are worse places I could be writing this blog from than the Canaries. . .

Leaving Laya after the Royal Highlander Festival, the trekking moved quite literally to a whole other level. The altitudes were higher, the weather colder and more unsettled, and the distances and elevation gains more serious. I was loving it.

A stupa (memorial containing sacred relics) seen on day 13, a relatively easy first day after our rest.
The Mo Chu river along which we walked much of day 13
Yaks crossing a bridge as we approached our camp on day 13. The weather definitely was detiorating at this point!
Me at Tsome La (5100m) on day 14. This pass was actually the start of a long crossing of a barren alpine plateau.
Our day 14 camp was in a valley known locally for its high snowfall. That night proved no exception.
The sun makes a welcome appearance on day 15 before the Karakachu La
The view from the Karakachu La (5080m) on day 15
Our group on the Karakachu La. Somehow I’m front and center here.
Our path along the Tarina Valley on day 16
It was nice to be below treeline, even if only for a short time. I saw this interesting flower farther along the Tarina Valley on day 16.
Vista of Kangphu Gang on day 17
Yaks seen going descending from Keche La as we were heading up on on day 17. Yaks must stay above 3000m, so non-trekking tourists in Bhutan don’t usually see them.
Keche La (4500m) with prayer flags and some of our group. I had ascended a little above the pass for this photo.
Chozo village on day 19, our third and final rest (and shower!) day. Though lacking electricity, Chozo actually had decent cell reception as the tower is solar-powered.
Our lunch spot by a lake on our way to the Sinthey La (5200m) on day 21. The two containers have our tea and hot lunch the cook had prepared for us that morning.
Lake Tsochena ringed by mountains on the descent from Sinthey La
Some of our horses and mules ascending the Rinchen Zoe La (5320m) on day 23, our highest point on the trek . Because of relatively good weather, we didn’t need any yaks to break trail through the snow, “only” the 37 equines.
A 270 deg. panorama seen from the Rinchen Zoe La (5320m, 17,454 ft). Gangkhar Puensum (7570m, 24,836 ft), the highest unclimbed mountain in the world, is at left-center, “peaking” out from behind lower mountains. Since 1994, climbing mountains in Bhutan higher than 6,000m has been prohibited out of respect for local spiritual beliefs, and since 2003 mountaineering has been forbidden completely.
The Vagabond Hiker from a few meters above the Rinchen Zoe La. It wasn’t really all that warm; I was simply switching jackets when I took a self-timer photo!
Clouds reflected in a lake descending from the Rinchen Zoe La
Our picturesque camp above Tampe Tsho lake on day 23. We were hit by several inches of snow that night, clear from the next photo. . .
Leaving camp for the Tampe La (4600m) on day 24. The pass is the obvious notch on the left, not visible from here.
The Vagabond Hiker on Tampe La (4600m) on day 24, our 11th and final high pass of the trek!
Monochrome vista of the sacred Om Thso Lake seen on our descent from Tampe La. There wasn’t much color anyway!
Panorama of the second (unnamed) lake on our descent to Maurothang, still day 24. Rhododendrons are seen in the foreground. If I ever come back to Bhutan, it will be in the spring to see them all in flower.
Prayer flags on our descent to Maurothang, our final camp
Our final camp by the river with my tent on the far left
An interesting flower seen as we approach the road head on the final day

While greenery was much appreciated after days of barren vistas, the final day of trekking was more mud and yak shit than anything else. However, the Bhutanese trekking agency met us at the road head with our vans and conjured up a fine lunch, including cold Bhutanese beer and wine. A great welcome back to civilization!

On our drive back to the capital Thimphu the next day we visited the famous Punakha Dzong, at the confluence of the Mo and Po (mother and father) Rivers. I took this photo in 2012 on my first trip to Bhutan as the light was better.
A magestic Bodhi tree (Ficus religiosa) in the Punakha Dzong courtyard
Driving to Thimphu, we crossed the Dochu La, known for its recently-constructed 108 stupas. This vista (photo also taken in 2012) includes Table Mountain, (center) and Gangkhar Puensum (right, just visible beside the tree).

After a farewell dinner in Thimphu where we said goodbye to our guides, the next afternoon we flew back to Kathmandu. Unfortunately, I did not have a window seat for what is easily the most spectacular commercial flight in the world, parallel to the spine of the Himalayas: the one hour trip features ring-side views of five the six highest mountains in the world. Oh, well, maybe next time.

I will publish one more blog this year featuring a few photos from the south coast of England near Hastings, where I spent so much time this past year and will spend several weeks next year. The blog will also detail some of my travel plans for 2020. Until then, keep hiking!

The Vagabond Hiker

Bhutan’s Snowman Trek, Part 1: Laya

Lazing in Lanzarote, the Bhutanese Himalayas seem a world away. A change in attitude without much of a corresponding change in latitude (to plagiarize Jimmy Buffett). The motivation for me is higher in the actual doing than in the analyzing. Indeed, I’ve taken far more time reviewing, selecting, editing, and uploading photos than I had imagined, even to the extent of looking over and including some of the photos from my first trip to Bhutan in 2012.

Arguably one of the most spectacular walks in the world, Bhutan’s incredible Snowman Trek follows the spine of the Himalaya between Bhutan and Tibet, from Paro in the west to Trongsa in the east. During the course of this 25 day trek, our group of ten crossed 11 passes in excess of 4500 meters (14,760 ft), including 5 over 5000 meters (16,400 ft), and visited the almost separate mountain kingdom of Lunana, one of the remotest inhabited valleys on the planet.

Tourist/trekking map of Bhutan, showing the Snowman trek route from Paro to Trongsa in Northwest Bhutan.

Along the way we journeyed through fabled villages like Laya, walked beneath 6- and 7000-meter peaks, including Chomolhari, the astounding Jichu Drake, and the World’s highest unclimbed peak, Gangkar Puensum. We also had time to absorb some of the incredible culture of this unique Himalayan Kingdom, with visits to the spectacular cliff-face Taktsang ‘Tiger’s Nest’ Monastery and the picturesque Punakha Dzong as well as two mountain festivals with which our trek was timed to coincide.

The Snowman Trek can easily be divided into two: the first, lower altitude and more traveled portion from Shana (where the road now ends) to Laya, and the second, more strenuous, higher and more remote, from Laya through Lunana, in our variant ending at Sephu. I likewise chose to divide my blog into two parts.

The famous Taktsang (“Tiger’s Nest”) Monastery, the objective of our pre-trek acclimatization hike. Fortunately for all, one manifestly unfit trekker quit after this hike, reducing our number to ten. Almost $10,000 spent for essentially a single hike!
Group photo with our two guides at the start of the trek on day 1. A wide diversity of backgrounds, including Polish, Italian, Swiss, and Australian, as well as American and British, made for an interesting trip.
A stream crossing early on day 1. Note the mani wheel.
Chomolhari, 7326m on the Tibetan border, seen on day 2 (zoom). The first portion of the Snowman Trek follows the very popular Chomolhari Trek route.
The Hermit’s Cave on day 2. The cave is in the cliffs to the right of the temple. Very few Westerners have ever visited – or ever will – as the locals are closing this sacred site to trekkers after this season.
Edelweiss, seen here on day 3. They seem far more common here than in the Alps, though most were past their prime this late in the season.
More flowers seen on day 3. The berries are from a different plant.
Chomolhari Mountain Festival dancers on day 4. This was a small celebration presided over by the minister of health.
On our descent into camp on day 5. Our tents are the orange dots in the valley.
Trumpet gentians. These flowers were ubiquitous, existing (if not thriving) as high as 5100 meters (16,730 ft.)!
Lake seen on our day 6 acclimatization hike with the distinctive Jitchu Drake behind
Local School children and our leader Tshering at Jangothang. We visited this elementary school on the way out of the village on day 7.
A vibrant trail-side flower on day 7.
Blue sheep (Bharal) on day 7, one of two herds of this Himalayan goat (caprid) species that we saw during the trek.
Our day 7 village campsite. Men from this village were having an archery contest with a neighboring village during our visit. Although I’ve avoided including photos showing high tension wires, the electrification of Laya three years ago has made the area seem less remote.
A typical Bhutanese style house leaving the village on day 8. Much of the recent prosperity of many of the villages bordering Tibet is due to the trade in Cordyceps Sinensis, the caterpillar fungus considered by the Chinese (and others) to exhibit aphrodisiacal qualities.
Tiger Mountain (Gangchen Tang) in the clouds on day 8 (zoom).
Spanish Moss and autumn colors below tree line (which is about 4200 m, 13,800 ft). Much of the first part of the trek was in the forest and sub-alpine environment
A wind-sculpted Juniper tree on day 8.
A taste of things to come. The terrain walking towards the Shinge La on day 10.
Shinge La, our first 5000m pass, on day 10. We quickly descended to warmer and less windy climes.
Some of our horses before loading on the morning of day 11. We had as many as 37 horses to transport our luggage and camp equipment.
View nearing Laya on day 11. Our second of three hot water bucket showers during the trek was enjoyed this afternoon in camp. Tshering did not want our smell to offend the locals during the next day’s festival!
Local family at the Laya Royal Highlander festival, day 12. We enjoyed this annual festival on our second rest day. This photo (and the two following) are courtesy of Stephen, who had a much better facility of taking people pics (and a better camera to do it with) than did I!
Laya Royal Highlander Festival, day 12. Note the conical hats the Laya women wear. They all enjoyed having their photos taken.
Another of Stephen’s great photos from the Laya Highlander Festival.

I attempted a video of a dance from the festival. Even though I compressed it, it may take a few minutes to load…

Stay tuned for the Snowman Trek, Part 2: Lunana in a few days.

The Vagabond Hiker

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